Cycling in the Netherlands: Our October Cycling Break

RetiredCormac

20 hours ago

15 min read

Looking for an easy cycling break from the UK? Here's how we organised a few days of cycling in the Netherlands, travelling by ferry with our bikes on the back of the car, staying in a hotel and exploring the Dutch countryside at our own pace.

Here goes - its a long read....

The Netherlands has a great reputation for being one of the best countries in the world for cycling, and once again we had the pleasure of riding there.

Last year we did a self-supported cycling adventure - we cycled off the ferry with all our gear packed in 4 cycle panniers. This time, we decided to take the car, with our bikes loaded onto the towbar mounted cycle carrier, and headed across the North Sea for a few days of cycling, good food and the occasional beer.

It turned out to be a great way to spend a few days away - and we both agreed that it felt so much longer than just those few days.

We stayed in Oisterwijk, near Tilburg, neither of which I’d heard of or visited before - but that didn’t put us off.

We used a hotel as our base and each day we would head out on the cycling paths whenever the mood took us. There were no hills to worry about, no complicated logistics and no need to cycle from one hotel to another with all our belongings.

Just me and Jane, cycling through the Dutch countryside, stopping for lunch and enjoying a few beers along the way.

We were very fortunate with the weather, too. It was a little cold at times, but generally dry and calm. The cycling paths were superb, and we managed a long ride, and lunch each day - without going back over the same ground.

If you're thinking about arranging your own cycling break in the Netherlands, here's how we did it, what worked well and what we'd do differently next time.

Getting to the Netherlands from the UK

We travelled by car from Northampton to Harwich, taking the overnight ferry to Hook of Holland with Stena Line.

Our trip started on Wednesday evening, leaving home at 17:15. Rather than driving straight to the port, we planned a stop for dinner along the way.

Unfortunately, our original restaurant reservation had to be cancelled after the restaurant suffered a serious fire. That meant finding an alternative at relatively short notice.

Our replacement was The Wooden Fender (located in Ardleigh, near Colchester), which turned out to be a great choice.

A good meal before the ferry

The restaurant was busy for a Wednesday evening in late October, with a relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. I'd booked ahead through its website, which was just as well, as there didn't appear to be many spare tables.

The food was homely, well-cooked and served in enormous portions.

Jane ordered the hunter's chicken, described as a small portion. Anywhere else, it would probably have been called a large! I had steak, and both meals came with chunky chips and salad.

We should probably have skipped the starters, but that would have meant missing out on the lovely garlic bread and tasty chilli.

The meal came to £75, including a tip, which I thought was good value. We left feeling thoroughly stuffed and happy.

It was then a short 30 minute drive to Harwich, where we boarded the ferry without any fuss.

Taking the overnight ferry

Our sailing was at 23:00, arriving at Hook of Holland at 08:00 the following morning.

We booked a cabin for the overnight crossing, which is compulsory. It’s fine though as we are too old to be spending the night in a public seating area. Been there - done that.

Our return-trip booking cost £287.80 for two passengers, the car and a cabin. There was no additional charge for carrying our bikes on the back of the car.

For us, this was good value. Although routes from Dover might sometimes work out cheaper, we'd have had more driving to contend with, both in terms of distance and cost.

The overnight ferry also meant we could take the car across and arrive in the Netherlands ready to start our holiday.

We travelled on the Stena Hollandica. The crossing was relatively quiet, with no significant queues, and we were soon driving off the ship.

Our Irish passports also helped us get through the port formalities quickly.

My tip: If you're taking your own bikes, compare the total cost of the ferry with the cost of alternative crossings. Remember to include additional driving, fuel, overnight accommodation if required and any charges for transporting your bikes. From experience Stena wins.

Choosing a base for cycling in the Netherlands

One of the biggest decisions when organising a cycling holiday is where to stay.

We had originally planned to drive to Dusseldorf - I’m so glad I changed this. The drive would have been disproportionally long for the time we had away.

For a short break, I think it's worth choosing somewhere relatively close to the ferry rather than spending hours driving across the country before you've even started cycling.

We settled on Oisterwijk, approximately 90 minutes' drive from Hook of Holland.

It was far enough into the Netherlands to feel like we'd left the UK behind, but close enough to make the most of a short break. Though to be honest once we were off the ferry we immediately felt we were in a different country. Yeah I know... we where, but you get what I mean.

We didn't need to travel hundreds of miles to find excellent cycling routes. In fact, one of the things that struck me most was just how quickly we could get into the countryside and start exploring.

Why we chose Oisterwijk

Our priorities were straightforward:

Quiet, relatively flat cycling routes.
Good cycle paths rather than busy roads.
Somewhere we could explore in several different directions.
A location that didn't require hours of driving once we'd arrived.

Pretty much anywhere would have ticked those boxes.

To be honest, our location was down to the hotel availability on the AMEX app. We picked the Fletcher hotel, with a total accommodation cost of £305.59 as it allowed for us to use a £250 American Express credit, which we had received through an offer on our Platinum Card and hadn’t got the opportunity to use elsewhere.

Honestly we could have been anywhere.

The hotel was comfortable, and the underground parking for our bikes gave me peace of mind when leaving them overnight.

We used a nearby free car park for the car. Initially, parking there felt a little uncertain, but it proved straightforward.

The town had plenty of restaurants to provide a wide choice of options for dinner.

Do you need to book a hotel with breakfast?

We decided not to include breakfast, preferring to find something to eat while out cycling.

This didn't work quite as well as we'd hoped.

We ended up having a few early lunches instead, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing, but it did mean our eating arrangements were dictated by what we could find along the route.

If I were organising the trip again, I'd take or buy a few things with us for the morning, fruit, cereal bars or something similar would have been ideal.

It would have allowed us to get on the bikes early, enjoy a couple of hours of cycling and then stop for a proper lunch when we found somewhere appealing.

The cycling: flat paths, quiet routes and plenty of stops

This was the part of the trip I enjoyed most.

The Dutch cycling infrastructure really is impressive. The paths were excellent, the routes were generally easy to follow on Google Maps, and we could cycle without constantly worrying about traffic.

And the hills?

There weren't any worth worrying about!

We're not looking for a cycling holiday that involves climbing mountain passes or pushing ourselves to our physical limits. Been there, done that. We want to get out, explore an area, enjoy the scenery and find somewhere nice to stop for lunch.

The Netherlands suits that style of cycling perfectly.

Three rides

We managed three separate rides during our short 3 day break.

Rather than committing ourselves to one long route, we treated the day as an opportunity to explore.

This flexibility worked particularly well because we'd brought the car and had a comfortable base to return to.

Our rides were recorded on Strava.

For anyone planning a similar trip, I'd recommend ditching route-planning apps, and just head out in any direction and see where the route takes you. During a beer or lunch stop - decide on the next 10km, and then head in the general direction of the hotel- keeping an eye on the time and allowing for a relaxed return.

Netherlands - dunes
Netherlands - windmill
Netherlands
Netherlands - Oisterwijk
Netherlands
Netherlands
Netherlands - WW2 camp
Netherlands - sand dunes

What makes cycling in the Netherlands so good?

There were several things that stood out.

Dedicated cycling infrastructure

We spent much of our time on designated cycle paths rather than sharing busy roads with cars. This made the experience more relaxed and enjoyable.

Flat terrain

You don't need to be an experienced or strong cyclist to enjoy the Netherlands. The relatively flat landscape makes cycling easy as does (and Jane will attest to this) an electric bike.

Freedom to explore

We could head in almost any direction and find a route worth following. We weren't restricted to a single long-distance trail.

Stops along the way

Our cycling was as much about enjoying ourselves as covering distance. We'd ride for a while, find somewhere for lunch, have a drink and then decide what to do next.

The weather helped

We were lucky with the conditions. It was generally dry, with little significant wind, although it could be cold at times. I'm glad we packed our cycling gloves. They made a real difference when the temperature dropped. Of course, end-of-October weather can be unpredictable, so I wouldn't plan a trip on the assumption that you'll enjoy several days of sunshine. I don’t think we would leave it so late in the year again. The advantage of having the car was that we had plenty of clothing with us and could adapt to the conditions.

Eating and drinking while cycling

One of the pleasures of cycling in the Netherlands is that you can build your day around finding somewhere to eat.

We enjoyed the food, although some of it felt a little heavy. Given the amount of cycling we were doing, we felt we were probably working it off!

The challenge was finding food at the right time. Because we hadn't eaten breakfast, we sometimes found ourselves looking for lunch earlier than planned.

Next time, I'd take a small breakfast with us and leave the main meal until we'd been cycling for a couple of hours.

Netherlands lunch
Netherlands lunch
Uitsmijter
Uitsmijter

A word about Dutch beer

The beer was good, and I particularly enjoyed ordering half-pints.

It sounds like a small detail, but a half-pint is ideal when you're stopping for a drink during a cycling day. You can enjoy a beer without committing yourself to a larger serving before getting back on the bike. That said we tended to have 2 or 3 half pints.

If it didn't look a little odd in the UK, I might consider making the switch at home!

Netherlands drinks
Netherlands drinks
Netherlands drinks

Should you take your car or cycle independently?

This was our second cycling trip to the Netherlands together, but the first time we'd taken the car and carried our bikes on the back.

Our earlier trip was self-supported, without a car. That was a different sort of adventure, with the freedom and challenges that come from travelling under your own steam.

Both approaches have their advantages, but I think we've discovered which one suits us best.

Option 1: Cycle independently

A self-supported cycling holiday is the more adventurous option.

You travel between destinations by bike, carrying the essentials you need for the journey.

The advantages

It feels like a proper cycling adventure.
You experience the journey between destinations rather than simply visiting an area.
There's a real sense of achievement in completing a trip under your own steam.

The disadvantages

You have to carry your luggage.
You need to plan your accommodation around your route.
You may need to repack your bags every day.
You're more exposed to the impacts of weather.
If you want to explore an area away from your route, it's less straightforward.

Option 2: Take the car and your bikes

For this trip, we drove to our hotel, unpacked and used it as a base for exploring the surrounding area.

It was a much more relaxed way to travel.

The advantages

You can take everything you need (and more) in the car.
There's no need to carry luggage while cycling.
You avoid reorganising your luggage every day.
You can take clothing for different weather conditions.
If the weather turns unpleasant, you can drive somewhere else or change your plans.
You can explore an area more thoroughly instead of continually moving on.
You can bring home a few duty-free purchases on the return journey.

The disadvantages

You have to pay extra for the ferry and fuel.
It's easier to become lazy and use the car when you should be cycling.
You lose some of the adventure of travelling entirely by bike.

For us, the advantages outweighed the disadvantages.

I liked being able to take clothing for every eventuality, which proved useful when the temperature dropped. We could leave our luggage in the car or hotel and head out with just what we needed for the ride.

Having a base also meant we could get to know the local area rather than passing through it.

We weren't trying to complete a particular route or reach another destination by the end of the day. We could simply enjoy ourselves. This was a holiday - not an expedition.

Our verdict: We prefer taking the car and staying at one or two hotels. It gives us more flexibility, makes the logistics easier and allows us to concentrate on the cycling rather than worrying about where we'll sleep the following night.

That doesn't mean we'll never do another self-supported trip. They offer a different experience, and I can see the attraction of both.

But for a short cycling break, taking the car works very well for us.

The Netherlands versus France: where is better for cycling?

We've enjoyed cycling in both countries, and I'm not sure I'd choose one over the other.

They offer rather different experiences, which is why I suspect we'll continue visiting both.

Cycling infrastructure

For me, the Netherlands has the advantage here.

The dedicated cycling infrastructure makes it easier to plan routes and spend much of the day away from busy roads.

France also has some excellent cycling opportunities, particularly on former railway lines converted into cycling and walking trails.

However, outside those routes, you may find yourself sharing roads with motor vehicles more frequently.

The hills

The Netherlands wins this one, too.

If you're looking for relatively flat cycling without significant climbs, it's difficult to beat.

France offers much more variety in its landscapes, but that can mean hills, longer climbs and routes that require a little more effort.

Neither is necessarily better. It depends on what you're looking for.

Food

I'd give France the edge here.

We've enjoyed the food in both countries, but French meals have a particular appeal for us.

The menu du midi — the lunchtime menu offered by many French restaurants — can be excellent value, often providing a proper meal at a reasonable price.

It's one of the things I particularly enjoy about travelling in France.

The Netherlands has plenty of good places to eat, but our preference for French food remains.

Beer

This one goes to the Netherlands.

We enjoyed the beer during our Dutch cycling break, particularly when stopping for a drink after a ride.

It's a small thing, but these little pleasures help make a cycling holiday enjoyable.

Wine though - is a different matter.

Safety and confidence

The Netherlands is our preferred choice for a relaxed cycling experience.

The extensive cycling infrastructure means you can often spend much of your time on dedicated paths rather than sharing the road with cars.

That can make a real difference if you're not particularly keen on cycling in traffic.

France has some wonderful routes, but you'll need to research individual journeys carefully to understand how much time you'll spend on dedicated paths and how much on roads.

So which would we choose?

I'm not sure.

For easy cycling, flat routes and excellent cycling infrastructure, the Netherlands is hard to beat.

For food, scenery and the pleasure of exploring French towns and villages, France has plenty going for it.

France also offers us the opportunity to combine a cycling break with a visit to family in Guernsey, making it an attractive option for a different sort of trip.

I suspect we'll continue visiting both countries rather than declaring a winner.

What we'd do differently next time

Even though we enjoyed the trip, there are a few things I'd change when organising another cycling break in the Netherlands.

Take something for breakfast

We wasted time on our first morning looking for somewhere to have breakfast and somewhere to cycle.

In retrospect, we should have taken a few simple breakfast items with us.

That would have allowed us to get straight on the bikes and stop for food when we found somewhere appealing.

Head straight to the hotel

Rather than searching for somewhere to eat and cycle immediately after arriving in the Netherlands, I'd consider driving straight to the hotel.

Drop off the car, get the bikes out and head out for a ride.

There's no need to travel far before you find good cycling in the Netherlands, so there's little point in wasting time driving around looking for somewhere to start.

Avoid school holidays where possible

We travelled in late October and were fortunate that the ferry crossing out was relatively quiet, different story on the way back!

I'd consider school holidays and other major holiday periods when choosing dates, as these can affect prices, traffic and how busy popular destinations become.

Practice packing the bikes

We did a reasonable job of securing our bikes on the way out, but the arrangement was a little too tight when we packed everything up for the return journey.

It's worth checking that both bikes fit securely on the rack, that nothing is rubbing against the other bike and that you can access anything you might need during the trip.

A little practice at home can save time and frustration when you're ready to leave.

Consider the ferry lounge

We wondered whether Stena Plus would be worth the extra cost.

For a short overnight crossing, having a quieter place away from the crowds can be appealing. Whether it's good value will depend on the price difference and how much time you'll spend in the lounge.

We opted for it on the daytime return.

One small complaint: charging €4 for Wi-Fi felt unnecessary. I'd like to see it included, or at least offered as a perk for passengers using Stena Plus.

Consider an overnight return crossing

We chose a daytime sailing on the way home, arriving at Harwich at 19:45 before driving back to Northampton. We were home at around 23:00.

That worked perfectly well, but there's an argument for taking an overnight ferry with a cabin in both directions.

You get another day away - we could have cycled near the port, avoid a late drive home and can arrive back in the UK feeling more rested.

It would be worth comparing the additional cost against the value of the extra night and the convenience of not having to drive home late in the evening.

Our ferry journey home

Our return sailing departed Hook of Holland at 13:45, arriving at Harwich at 19:45.

After disembarking, we had the drive home to look forward to.

We arrived back in Northampton at approximately 23:00, bringing our short Dutch cycling break to an end.

It was a straightforward journey, and the ferry made the whole trip relatively easy to organise.

Taking the car had allowed us to bring everything we needed, leave our belongings at the hotel and enjoy the cycling without worrying about luggage or the next day's destination. And return with more than a few bottles of wine.

For a short break, that convenience was worth a great deal.

How much does a cycling trip to the Netherlands cost?

More than you would originally think.

One of the useful things about organising a trip independently is that you can choose where to spend your money.

Our main costs were the ferry, accommodation, food, drinks and fuel.

Here's a summary of the costs we recorded.

Expense	Cost
Return ferry for two people, car and cabin	£287.80
Hotel accommodation	£305.59
Less expected American Express credit	-£250.00
Local accommodation taxes	£15.44
Fuel	£80.00
Food and drinks x 3 nights	£600
Total after Amex card credit and including local taxes	£1038.83

The relatively short drive meant that we didn’t need to refill our car whilst away.

Is cycling in the Netherlands worth it?

Absolutely.

We had a great few days away, enjoyed some excellent cycling and discovered how easy it is to organise a short break around a comfortable hotel. We also were impressed by the Fletcher Hotel - and realised that its got great coverage at a reasonable price in the Netherlands.

The cycling paths were superb, the terrain was flat, and we could head out in almost any direction without needing to plan every detail in advance.

Taking the car made the trip particularly easy. We had everything we needed with us, could have adapted to the weather if required.

It was also a reminder that you don't need to travel far into the Netherlands to enjoy a proper Dutch cycling experience.

For anyone living in the UK, the Harwich–Hook of Holland ferry offers a convenient way to take your own bikes across the North Sea and start exploring.

Would I recommend it?

Yes.

Would I do it again?

Definitely.

And next time, I'll remember to take something for breakfast.

Practical information: planning your own Dutch cycling break

Getting there: We travelled from Northampton to Harwich and took the Stena Line ferry to Hook of Holland.

Getting around: We took our own car and carried our bikes on the back.

Where we stayed: Oisterwijk, in North Brabant, using a Fletcher hotel as our base.

Our preferred style: Staying in one hotel and exploring the surrounding area on circular cycling routes.

Best for: Cyclists looking for relatively flat routes, excellent cycling infrastructure, comfortable accommodation and the freedom to stop for food and drinks along the way.

What to pack: Cycling clothes for changing weather, gloves, waterproofs, a phone with a route-planning app, lights where needed and a small breakfast for the first morning.

Our biggest tip: Don't overcomplicate the planning. Choose a convenient base, identify a few routes and leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy the ride.

Have you cycled in the Netherlands? We'd love to hear about your favourite routes, towns and places to stay.