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So here’s our receipt — and I still can’t get over the value. This was a return journey for two adults from Northampton to Heathrow. Payment method: Credit Card Card type: MASTERCARD Fare: £25.20 Booking Fee: Free E-Ticket: Free Standard Outbound Seat Reservation £5.00 Standard Return Seat Reservation £5.00 Change & Go Return £10.00 Total: £45.20 Even better, the bus stop in Northampton is less than 1km from our house. Logistically, it couldn’t have been simpler. Jane waited at the bus stop with the bags, I drove back to leave the car on the driveway, then walked back down to the bus stop. Easy. On the return home it will be even smoother, as my son will be ready to collect us as soon as we step off the coach. At Heathrow, the bus stop is right outside Arrivals — no transfer bus, no standing around in the cold. We opted for the Change & Go ticket for added flexibility in case we arrive back earlier or later than planned. Probably unnecessary — but it’s nice to have the option. Other reasons to use National Express Aside from the price, there are plenty of positives: There’s a live coach tracker within the app, so you can see exactly where the bus is — no guessing when it’ll turn up. The view is surprisingly good from any seat. I even spotted deer grazing on the motorway verge. Comfortable and clean (although I didn’t inspect the onboard toilets). Relaxing — next time I might even bring snacks and fully lean into it. And back to the price… Our reserved seats weren’t available on the outbound journey, but I had that refunded via online chat — bringing the total down to £40.50 . £40.50 would barely cover the petrol for a return trip to Heathrow. By not taking the car, we also avoided parking costs — the cheapest Meet & Greet option for just over five weeks was £250. Assuming the return journey goes smoothly, this may well become our preferred way of getting to and from Heathrow for longer trips. I booked around three months in advance. FlixBus — which is similarly convenient — was considerably more expensive at the time. Post trip Update; When we boarded the bus from home down to Heathrow our reserved seats had been taken by some seat squatters that weren't for moving. To make things easier we opted to move further down the bus. When I complained to National Express they were quick in refunding the £5 that I'd paid for the reserved seats together with an apology. The trip down was simple Our return flight landed on time - so didn't need the flexibility that we'd pre-paid for. That said - I think I would opt to have this flexibility if we choose to travel back from a return flight with National Express again. Would I do it again - Yep 100% - If the costs and availability suit - then it is a pretty simple decision.

Madrid Our first stop en route to South America was Madrid — primarily to take advantage of a direct flight to Quito, Ecuador. Avios prices were very reasonable too, which made the decision even easier. It was our first time travelling within Europe on our Irish passports, and the exit from the airport couldn’t have been smoother. The non-EU queue, on the other hand, was enormous — so we felt quietly smug. Uber works brilliantly at Madrid Airport, with a specific car park level repurposed solely for pickups. It made everything feel simple and familiar. No dramas. Hotel We stayed at the Hilton Spark Alcalá — clean, comfortable, and very cheap on Hilton points (£66 per night). The downside? It’s quite far out from the centre, with very little to see or do nearby. That said, it was perfect hotel for breaking up the journey and insulating us from any potential UK delays that might have jeopardised our long-haul flight to Quito. A Long Walk Our day in Madrid turned into a mega walk — into the city and then all around it. My watch ran out of battery, but I’d estimate we covered around 15km. A great way to reacquaint ourselves with the city. Naturally, we stopped frequently for sustenance: sandwiches, cake, coffee, some excellent ham, and a burger — all washed down with water, beer, wine, and a cocktail. Lots of photos of the food and drinks. The beers and wine were genuinely excellent and very reasonably priced. Once in the centre, it’s almost impossible to escape the tourists — but we gave it our best shot. We revisited a few favourite spots from previous trips and explored some new areas too. The neighbourhood near the park was particularly vibrant, even in the rain. By the end of the day, it was a very welcome Uber back to the hotel. After a night’s sleep, we were heading back to the airport for leg two of the journey. We booked an Uber Priority to avoid waiting around. The driver drove like a maniac — despite me reassuring him we were in absolutely no rush. We survived, so I suppose that’s a win. For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Like Madrid, Quito was simply an overnight airport stop. We booked the Holiday Inn Quito Airport  on points, mainly because it offered a shuttle bus. Immigration was painfully slow — one of those queues that barely seems to move. By the time we finally emerged, we were exhausted. Thankfully, the shuttle was waiting right outside, which felt like a small but significant win. In hindsight, we probably should have chosen the Courtyard by Marriott Quito Airport , which was walking distance, and avoided the transfer altogether. Still, we managed a quiet evening: light food, a couple of beers, and an attempt to reset our jet-lagged bodies to South American time. Spoiler: three days later, that still hadn’t worked. We didn’t see any of Quito itself, but everyone we encountered was friendly and helpful. The Galápagos Departure Process Returning to the airport the next morning for our flight to the Galápagos was more stressful than expected. Before departure, you need to: Purchase a $20 TCT (Transit Control Card) Register your visit online Have your bags inspected The first two steps require a decent internet connection — something the airport notably did not provide. In the end, I completed the process using the mobile hotspot of the government agent that was serving us, which was incredibly kind of him. Then, slightly bizarrely, we were each given a badge. We later realised this wasn’t a special honour — everyone gets one. Lounge Logic & eSIM Lessons We retreated to the lounge using our Priority Pass for what turned into both breakfast and  lunch (not brunch). We were only there for an hour, but perfectly timed it between the breakfast wind-down and lunch rollout — maximum options achieved. I also logged a support call with my eSIM provider, Wiiline . To their credit, the chat was answered quickly and they walked me through steps that properly restored connectivity — at least in Quito. The Latin American eSIM cost under £25 for 20GB over 30 days, which felt like an excellent deal compared to competitors. If only it had worked flawlessly from the start. A Realisation We also reflected on how naïve we’d been booking this trip with almost no Spanish and limited English spoken around us. That said — we’re managing. Just. After one final documentation check at the gate, we were cleared for departure. Next stop: the Galápagos. No photos - as there wasn't much of anything interesting! For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Leaving the airport for the hotel, we were hit immediately by the heat and humidity. Even at 11pm on a Saturday night, the traffic was chaotic — endless beeping in near standstill conditions, cars edging forward together but going nowhere. The driving style felt… optimistic. Vehicles squeezed into impossibly small gaps and travelled so close together that I was genuinely surprised not to see more accidents. Cars were a mix of shiny new cars and ageing veterans, and from what we could tell, a few broken-down old motors (plus roadworks) were adding to the congestion. We stayed in a lovely, quieter part of Miraflores — noticeably calmer and feeling very safe. We ventured into the historic centre once for a guided walk, and although the tour with Haku Tours was enjoyable, getting there and back took nearly an hour each way thanks to the traffic. Back nearer the coast, we joined Haku again for a cycle tour around Miraflores and Barranco. It was technically a group tour, but as it turned out, it was just Jane and me — effectively a private ride, which made it all the more enjoyable. Cycling along the coastal path, we experienced the cooling effect of La garúa — the dense sea mist that drifts in from the Pacific. It genuinely feels like natural air conditioning for the city. Move just a few hundred metres inland, though, and the temperature difference is striking. UV levels here regularly climb above 10 at midday, so sun protection is essential. While relaxing by the pool one afternoon, we experienced a 5.0 earthquake — my first that I’ve actually noticed. It didn’t last long enough to cause concern, but it certainly added a bit of drama to an otherwise lazy day. We’ve walked, run and cycled extensively around Miraflores and would happily recommend it as a base in Lima. It’s on the opposite side of the city from the airport, so I’m particularly glad we’re flying out early on a Sunday morning when traffic should (hopefully) be kinder. Uber has been plentiful and reliable throughout our stay. Breakfast at the Hilton has been superb — complimentary thanks to the Diamond status I’ve worked hard to maintain. We’ll rack up 23 Hilton nights on this South American trip, which means 23 × 2 substantial breakfasts. They’re big enough to justify skipping lunch altogether. Conservatively estimating £30 per day in savings, that’s close to £700 saved across the holiday — not insignificant. Pisco sours? We tried one. That was enough for me — I’ll stick to beer. Thankfully, the local beers have been refreshing and varied. We’ve managed to avoid Sol and Corona so far, largely because there are plenty of popular local alternatives, including stouts and wheat beers — a pleasant surprise. We were told that chicken is Peru’s favourite dish, so we had to try it. Tori Pollería was recommended by a tour guide and was clearly popular — busy and bustling. If I’m honest though, it didn’t quite live up to expectations. The hot sauce helped (Peruvian tastes seem to lean sweeter rather than fiery), and Jane enjoyed her rice and chicken. But I’ve had better chicken and chips at Nando’s, so I wouldn’t be rushing back. We had a Corona with dinner — and yes, it tasted exactly like Corona at home. Who knew? Our cooking class, again with Haku, was a real highlight. We were picked up at the hotel by our guide Gaby and taken to a local market, where we wandered through stalls and learned about the sourcing of meat, fish and produce. After meeting our chef, Karina, we headed to a professional kitchen for the class itself. Once again, it was just the two of us — effectively a private session with plenty of personal attention. We got fully involved, and if I do say so myself, the food was excellent. Flavours and textures came together beautifully — though we may have made one sauce slightly too spicy. A minor miscalculation. Overall: 10/10. I’d absolutely recommend it. Haku impressed us throughout with their communication and organisation (and a bit of effective cross-selling along the way). In truth, we didn’t explore widely across Lima. Aside from our city-centre visit, most of our time was spent in Miraflores — on tours, out exercising, or relaxing by the pool. Then came another lively drive back to the airport… and that was Lima. Easter Island next. For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Day 1 The flight from Lima, followed by an overnight stay in an airport hotel in Santiago, was fairly uneventful – mostly just a lot of waiting around. The only thing of note was that the Chilean wine was good, but the local dish called Pastel de choclo  wasn’t really for me. It is made of sweetcorn ground into a paste with beef, chicken, raisins, black olives, onions and slices of hard-boiled egg - this all sounded fine, but why, in God’s name, was there sugar sprinkled on top and baked until caramelised? The flight out to Easter Island was long – over five hours – but at least it left on time. When we landed we’d only lost three hours thanks to the time change. Our hotel on the island was good, right on the main street. After checking in we grabbed lunch and a few beers at one of the many restaurants nearby and began settling into island life. Day 2 A grand tour of the island – exploring everything it has to offer, but more specifically the Moai statues that are synonymous with Easter Island. The tours all seem to follow roughly the same route, covering the same key locations, so price is probably the best guide when choosing one. You can never quite tell what sort of guide you’re going to get. We booked through Viator with what appeared to be a small company – two sisters, one driving and one guiding. The tour ran from 09:30 to 17:00 and covered everything at a nice, gentle pace. Note: You must buy a national park entrance ticket. You must have a guide to visit the statues. We chose a group tour rather than a private one. We’re interested in the history of the island, but not fanatical about it. I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking, though honestly it’s far better to experience it in person. SPF 50 and plenty of water are essential. We headed out for food and drinks in the evening to watch the sunset. The sunset didn’t happen. Day 3 Breakfast, followed by a hike up to the volcano crater. Just over 13 km, UV index of 10, and about 25°C. Bizarrely, we were accompanied by one of the many stray but friendly dogs that roam around the town centre. Scruffy (that’s what we called him after about 3 km) had a good sense of direction and would constantly look back for us, occasionally trying to herd us along if we were going too slowly. We didn’t encourage him – but he followed us the whole way and even came back to the hotel gate with us, where the gate was promptly closed in his face. Bye Scruffy. After showers and more sun cream we headed out again for a late empanada lunch and a couple of well-deserved beers. While we were out we also booked a cultural dance show for that evening. The dance show itself was actually pretty good. Unfortunately, I had a short person sitting in front of me which gave me a clear view of the stage – but she felt the need to record most of the performance on her phone. So for much of the show I was watching the dancers through the silhouette of a phone-shaped head. Day 4 A chill-out day. We spent the morning browsing through the shops during a long walk around town, then went for a swim and watched the turtles down at the harbour – including one enormous one. Food for the day consisted mainly of empanadas. Day 5 A late start and an excellent lunch at a seafood restaurant. Then it was a quick five-minute drive to the airport before settling into the sunshine at the departure gate whilst waiting for a late flight back to Santiago, where we have five nights booked. For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Day 1 Arriving at the Santiago departures area, we were immediately met by the ever-present onslaught of taxi drivers and their various slightly dubious offers. It was a bit easier to find our way around the airport this time as it was actually now our third visit - we had used the domestic terminal to access Easter Island, so we were starting to relax a little more and not everything was shiny and new to us. We avoided the chaos and hunted down an Uber instead — it’s a known and trusted ride for us. Uber was as expected - simple. By the time we reached the hotel, Hilton Ola Providencia we were pretty drained, and the bar was closed, so it didn’t take long before we were in bed. Day 2 Up early and straight out for a walk - without a plan - just google maps and 100% charge on my phone. Our first stop was the cable car up the hill/mountain overlooking Santiago, home to the enormous statue of Mary watching over the city. The views across Santiago were impressive - though everything was quite small, on account of it being far away. We stopped for a big lunch at Muu Grill - I had a kebab - one of those skewers that hang - made of mixed meat. We then headed to an unexpected event: the Irish women’s hockey international against Australia - spoiler 0:1 to Australia. We had only discovered the match that morning after noticing the Irish team staying at our hotel. We paid £12.50 each for the hospitality upgrade, it did not quite deliver full value! There was no beer available and the burgers were meatless, and on brioche rolls that Jane doesn’t subscribe to, disappointing at a sporting event. Still, the seats were excellent and it was fun to watch the match. Day 3 Another long walk around the city - it seems to be our thing to burn off the calories from the night before. As it happened, it was International Women’s Day , and we ended up caught up in the march through the streets. It was actually great to witness — thousands and thousands of energetic and good-natured women — though as a man it felt slightly difficult to feel fully part of it. Lunch was Thai food - seeking spicy. The spice level was gentle and it wasn’t the best Thai we’ve ever had, but it was still good — and the portions were enormous. Dinner was completely out of the question afterwards, so we settled for a couple of drinks before heading back to the hotel. There we watched the parents of the Irish hockey team celebrating their twenty-something daughters’ performances with a few well-earned drinks. They came 3rd in the competition - having beaten Japan on penalties. Day 4 An early start with a quick breakfast before boarding a minibus for our trip to the coast at Valparaíso . https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/AttractionProductReview-g294305-d11467569-Valparaiso_Port_and_Vina_del_Mar_with_Casablanca_Wine_Tasting-Santiago_Santiago_Me.html The tour was probably a 7/10  overall. We’d already seen plenty of the Pacific during the trip, so it may be more exciting for people who are only visiting Santiago. That said, the itinerary includes several stops that together give a good feel for the area. Lunch was relaxed and very good value — we went for the fish of the day, which was excellent. The vineyard stop was pleasant enough, though it was really just a simple tasting rather than a full tour. All in all it made for a long day, but at a good price and definitely worth doing. I took some photos, and the tour guide shared her much superior photos, that for some unknown reason don’t have the crowds of people included. That evening we decided that the hotel — Hilton Garden Inn Santiago Providencia  — is actually pretty cool, and the Providencia  neighbourhood itself had grown on us now that we had settled in. Despite all the stories about needing to be cautious in Santiago, we haven’t experienced any issues. The area feels lovely and we felt perfectly safe walking back to the hotel around 10pm. Day 5 Another great meal, this time in the Barrio Italia  area at Casa Luz . The steak was one of those steaks that tastes and feels like steak should - well cooked and presented. Afterwards we began the long walk back to the hotel, stopping at one of the many KrossBar  locations for a drink before ending up at Texas Ribs  in the Providencia mall. A note on the KrossBar - for reasons only known to Chile, its license means that you can only enjoy a second drink if you are having food. Back to the mall, on the fifth floor there’s an impressive variety of restaurants. We had beer first with our dinner and then a couple of margaritas as dessert — it was our last night after all. On the short walk back to the hotel we decided to pop into Flannery's Irish Geo Pub , which may well be the worst Irish bar we’ve ever visited. Scrub may - it was beyond bad. They were serving green drinks - and it wasn’t St Paddy’s day, and the stout was poured with contempt. One quick beer confirmed our suspicions and we left promptly. The walk back to the hotel was short and pleasant — even late in the evening the air was warm and the streets felt relaxed. For more of our South American Odyssey - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Day 1 The flight with LATAM from Santiago was uneventful, and we got lucky breezing through immigration and customs. Before long, we were in an Uber for the fairly long drive into the city — and just in time to catch the last hour of happy hour in the hotel lounge. The Hilton Buenos Aires is well located in Puerto Madero, a smart and pleasant part of the city. Most people know Buenos Aires for tango, football, and culture. I, however, know it as one of the first cities to be attacked by the Arachnids in Starship Troopers — where Johnny Rico’s parents were killed while he was FaceTiming them. I imagine they lived somewhere around here. Interestingly, I haven’t seen any bugs. Day 2 We did a city tour (which I’ve reviewed on TripAdvisor). Unfortunately, it wasn’t great. Much of it involved sitting on a bus visiting sites of limited significance—and even less interest. We did get some time on foot around the main square and in La Boca, which was extremely touristy. I bought a shirt. It was Jane’s birthday, and due to poor planning, we ended up at a fairly sub-optimal restaurant. Lesson learned. We made up for it with some excellent cocktails back at the hotel bar. Argentina is incredibly good value—cocktails were around £7 each and very well made. We also discovered there was a festival in town that weekend—Bryan Adams, Lewis Capaldi, Olivia Rodrigo and Sabrina Carpenter were all performing. Apparently, Lewis was staying at our hotel. I spent 2 days carrying my phone everywhere in case of a chance encounter. “Operation Stalk Lewis” officially had begun! Day 3 No sign of Lewis at breakfast. We had a great lunch, which only highlighted how poor yesterday’s had been. I reviewed Cauce Restaurant (about 300m from the hotel) on TripAdvisor. A three-course business lunch with water and wine came to just over £40 for two! —amazing value for the quality of food, presentation, and service. The afternoon was spent by the pool in warm sunshine, generously covered in factor 30. We headed to the hotel lounge for happy hour, only to find it packed with noisy pre- and post-cruise guests. Loud. Very loud. That said - they had a pool table - so we were able to head over to it - to make some more noise than them. The evening was salvaged with more excellent-value cocktails. I had a beautifully smoky Old Fashioned, followed by a vodka martini—shaken, not stirred, with three olives. Very chic. Day 4 After breakfast, we took a long walk by the nature reserve, followed by an afternoon in the sun. I don’t feel like we wasted our time in Buenos Aires—we got out and about enough to justify the lounging. We heard a few Scottish accents around the hotel, but still no sign of Lewis. That said, a crowd started forming outside, so we assume he—or someone equally famous—was nearby. Lunch was another success, this time at Sorrento (also reviewed on TripAdvisor), before heading back to get ready for the evening’s tango show. We were taking an Uber to the venue—1.5 miles for about £4. An easy decision. And then… there he was. Sitting casually in reception. We approached in what I’d describe as a non-stalker fashion . Jane met Lewis Capaldi while I documented the moment. He was relaxed, friendly, and very down-to-earth. We wished him well for his performance and went on our way—mission accomplished. The tango show was excellent (again, reviewed on TripAdvisor). A small venue with only a handful of guests meant great seats and an intimate feel. The music and dancing were fantastic—authentic rather than overproduced. We opted for an early night instead of getting swept up in the local Saturday night scene, which seems to run until 4 or 5am. Day 5 Despite diligently applying sun cream, we both managed to get badly burnt on our stomachs while lying by the pool. Our best guess is we didn’t give it enough time to absorb before heading into the sun. A painful lesson. I think I've actually burnt my nipples - which will be a first. Luckily, tomorrow is a travel day, followed by a full-day tour—so some recovery time is built in. We attended a cooking class, which was a lot of fun (again reviewed on Tripadvisor)  Afterwards, we had drinks in the lounge, went for a walk across the ‘woman’s bridge’, had a drink on the Corona barge (not worth the wait!)  and then back to the hotel bar, to continue our non-drinking night (smiley face). I conducted extensive “research” into Old Fashioneds—exploring smoked vs unsmoked, and with vs without sugar—while talking a fair amount of nonsense. This naturally led to a late night. Day 6 Moving day. Breakfast was a subdued affair—just coffee and a bit of toast—as I nursed a self-inflicted hangover that lingered for most of the day. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Profile/Retired_Cormac www.retiredcormac.co.uk https://www.instagram.com/retiredcormac For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

…that is what was on my flight back from Rio this morning (BA248). (Full disclosure: I’ve had about 1.5 hours of sleep in the last 24 hours.) The worst of people were on this flight. To illustrate the point, I’ve listed them below. Note: some individuals may fall into more than one category—and many clearly do. The Coughers The relentless coughers. Either the dry, irritating kind, or the deep, guttural version where you know something unpleasant has been brought up—and you’re left wondering what they’re doing with it. Worse still when they’re out of sight. The Sniffers This includes the long, dramatic sniff, as well as the quieter but equally maddening repetitive sniff, sniff, sniff. Pick either one - both are as annoying. The Clueless Unable to locate their seat, despite the numbers being in sequence and prominently displayed. They stash their bag three rows away, then act surprised when deplaning becomes a logistical crisis.Bonus points for losing something mid-flight and conducting a full search operation using their phone torch. The Bathroom Offenders Those who somehow miss the toilet entirely, don’t flush, or appear fundamentally confused by how flushing works. It raises serious questions about how they manage at home. Genuinely, hats off to the cabin crew—true heroes. The Loud Talkers Multiple subcategories, one defining trait: loud, self-absorbed, and talking absolute nonsense/shite at full volume. The Non-Listeners After hearing “omelette or full English?” repeated 40 times down the aisle, they still ask:“What are the choices?” At this point, it feels deliberate. The Lingerers They stand in the aisle next to your seat for an uncomfortable amount of time, leaving you eye-level with their rear end. No further detail required. The Unsafe Those who ignore the seatbelt sign during clearly announced turbulence. Refusing to sit when requested by the cabin crew, and only when the toilets are actually locked do they reluctantly sit down. I’d rather not have their airborne dead and lifeless bodies becoming a hazard to me if things go wrong. The Queue Jumpers First to board, first to stand, first to rush the aisle, first to the luggage belt.And yet… we all end up waiting for bags together anyway. A pointless victory. The Phone Offenders No headphones. Constant notification pings. Keyboard clicks at full volume. Random torch usage.Taking terrible photos of clouds like they’ve discovered weather. The Rustlers Not the cattle-driving kind—the ones who cannot open a crisp packet or eat sweets without generating maximum noise. You’d think the sound of jet engines would mask it.It does not. The Drummer Tapping, drumming, whistling, or quietly singing—badly.We didn’t even encounter this one until the airport bus, which felt like an unnecessary sequel. The Full Recliner The second the wheels leave the ground—bang—seat fully back. Crushing your knees, your laptop, and your will to live. Also guarantees a deeply awkward mealtime. Somewhere between the coughers, the sniffers, and the rustlers, I accepted this was no longer a flight, it was a test. Airplanes are essentially a social experiment—a kind of airborne people soup at 35,000 feet. Tight space, no escape, and everyone eventually reveals their true form. I’ll admit—I’ve probably fallen into one or two of these categories myself at times. But how we managed to get all of them on one flight is beyond me. One final observation: the majority of passengers were over 55—which includes me.I suspect a plane full of Gen Z would present an entirely different, but equally troubling, set of behaviours. There is one group I haven’t criticised: The Sleepers Those who sleep for the full 11+ hours. They step off the plane refreshed, composed, and ready to face the day without a hint of jet lag. I hate them the most. Deeply. Irrationally. And with the clarity that only 1.5 hours of sleep can provide. For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

Hotel – Hotel Ninfa (Puerto Ayora) Hotel Ninfa was OK. Actually, probably better than OK. It’s a budget hotel, and for a budget option it did very well in terms of comfort, facilities, and price. One minor issue: beetles would occasionally come under the door. However, whatever they’d sprayed around the doorway meant those were the insects’ final few minutes of life. The bar was quiet and reasonably priced. The pool was small and deep — perfect for cooling off after a hot day. The air conditioning in the bedroom was excellent, and reception were very helpful when it came to organising taxis and general logistics. For what we paid, it was hard to complain. Island Life – Santa Cruz (Puerto Ayora) Santa Cruz — specifically Puerto Ayora, the island’s main town — caters for everyone. It’s relaxed and easygoing, and you can move at whatever pace suits you. We walked along the waterfront most days and saw something different each time — seals, pelicans, the odd marine iguana casually blocking the path. We were still battling jet lag, so we were in bed early most nights. The island seems to follow the sun: it starts early and winds down when it gets dark (unless it’s the weekend). Tours We visited the Charles Darwin Research Station just outside town. It’s an interesting walk and probably better with a guide. Somehow we missed picking one up and wandered around at speed without being challenged — although some sources suggest guides are mandatory. We hired bikes via Viator — likely overpaying slightly by not going direct. The bikes were delivered and collected by Rony from Happy Bikes and Tours, with all communication handled via WhatsApp. Very smooth and very relaxed. Helmets were supplied, but no locks — which suggests bike theft isn’t a major issue. We walked out to Playa Tortuga along a paved volcanic stone path. It’s popular, and rightly so. Allow 80–90 minutes there and back. It’s mostly flat, but the heat makes it more tiring than expected. We also did the Giant Tortoise Watching and Lava Tunnels tour with Galapagos Frontier. They kindly rescheduled due to incoming weather and arranged a return taxi for $25. Again, all organised via WhatsApp — refreshingly simple. The tour was excellent. Giant tortoises were everywhere. Seeing them in the wild — not in a zoo, not behind a fence — is quite surreal. The forest walk felt alive, and the lava tunnels were far more impressive than I’d expected. It was just the two of us, so it felt very personal, with a great guide. We skipped snorkelling and scuba diving — neither of us are especially keen — although there was certainly no shortage of options. Food The food scene felt more American than South American — lots of burger-style menus and tourist-friendly offerings. Slightly disappointing, but probably reflective of the visitor mix. We did find some more traditional options with a bit of searching. Overall, it was pleasant rather than memorable — and most importantly, no ill effects. Charles Binford Street had some very reasonably priced food options, though the drinks were fairly average. $6 for soup, large main and a drink for lunch was an incredible deal. The fish soup was fantastic. Jane said the beef soup was as good. On reflection though hot soup on a hot day might not have been the best idea. Drinks Expensive — roughly on a par with the UK. It is an island 2 hours off the coast. There were lots of promotions: “happy hour” that seemed to last most of the day. Club beer, craft beer, was maybe $6 to $9, or very cheap cocktails — often 4 for $10. Low alcohol content, but effective at cooling us down. Weather Hot and humid. Properly hot. When there was no breeze, it could feel borderline unbearable. Being on the equator, the UV index is high — SPF 50, a good hat, and constant hydration are essential. Transport Airport to town: $5 bus, $1 ferry, then a $30 taxi waiting on the other side to take you to your hotel. Same process in reverse. Your bag disappears onto the bus and reappears when you hand it to the taxi driver to load into a pickup-style taxi. Surprisingly efficient. Around town: plenty of taxis and easy to flag down. Tours will arrange transport if needed. Wildlife Giant tortoises by the roadside and in fields — especially between the airport and town. When you approach, they hiss before pulling their head and legs into their shell. The hiss isn’t aggression — it’s them expelling air to create space inside the shell. Marine iguanas everywhere near the beach. Completely unbothered by humans. Large beetles and other winged insects — loud, low buzzing that takes a little getting used to. In reality, they caused no issues. All this nature was everywhere - and after a while you stopped being surprised to see a giant tortoise, a seal, a pelican, or iguana. I’ll never get used to the huge flying bugs. Final Thoughts A fantastic trip. I’d probably go back if I were into snorkelling or scuba diving. Without that, I feel like we’ve ticked the box — and very happily so. For lots more on our South American Tour / Odyssey - have a look here - https://www.retiredcormac.co.uk/blog/categories/south-american-tour

January 31st. That was the day my OneWorld status reset. In previous years I’d earned Silver or Gold status with BA — which meant free seat selection, among other perks. It saved a fortune when travelling with the whole family. Extra luggage allowance meant I could take my bike touring as a second checked bag. There were lounges — some good, some bad — priority boarding (no hunting around for overhead locker space), and the occasional upgrade. Though, if I’m honest, I got very, very few of those. I’d originally got status via a few well routed low cost business flights - those ones that take 4 or more separate flights to go from A to B (usually an Eastern European airport, to London, to New York, to LA and then onto Hawaii and back). On one trip - the flight times were that poor, I slept overnight just outside the lounge at JFK. I wasn't alone, but I was first into the lounge showers and got to have a hot breakfast in the lounge, and then caught up on sleep in a flat bed on the first flight of the day - so not all bad. But alas, BA put an end to those shenanigans, and closed  that method of gaining status at a reasonable price, and so me and a good number of fellow value travellers lost our status this year. My last flight as a status holder was on 31st January, returning from Japan. We had naff seats and, of course, didn’t get upgraded. But we did get to spend some time in the very nice Cathay Pacific Lounge in Tokyo. It was a pity it was so early in the morning — I wouldn’t have minded a few more self-pour beers while watching the planes land and working my way through more of the noodle bar menu. And now I’m back to flying without the perks. I don’t feel that sad about it, though. I had a good run. I enjoyed the lounges — enough, in fact, to get a little bored of them. The BA ones in particular no longer felt special or different. We still have Priority Passes through our American Express Platinum card, which give access to non-airline-branded lounges in most airports. That made Heathrow a bit more comfortable last week — though it wasn’t amazing. Madrid was better on Priority Pass, but again, not great. Still, I’d take a crowded Priority Pass lounge over paying inflated airport prices for mediocre food and drinks in the main terminal. On our South American adventure — so far at Quito, Galápagos, and Guayaquil — all had Priority Pass–accessible lounges, which at least provided somewhere to sit and grab a bite to eat. And the food was local and pretty good. I can't see myself ever qualifying for similar status again, which is a blessing in ways as chasing renewals can steer travel a little too much. I'm expecting that this will mean more short hops into Europe from local airports for shorter and more frequent holidays. We'll also try a few more cycling holidays - where we either take the car or the ferry into France or Netherlands. The change will be good for us, and keep the travelling fresh.

One of the things I found most surprising about Japan was that every hotel provides pyjamas. They’re usually laid out neatly on top of the bed, rather than tucked away in a wardrobe like robes and slippers often are in Western hotels. According to Google, this is done for a mix of cultural, practical and hospitality reasons. You can look that up for yourselves. We found that pyjamas were provided in both traditional Japanese hotels and Western-style chains. In every case, they were incredibly comfortable. As I’m somewhere between small and average in size, it wasn’t surprising that they fitted - although I didn’t notice any alternative sizes being offered. They also seemed to be unisex. At first, I did think it was slightly odd to sleep in pyjamas that someone else had worn before - even if they had been freshly laundered. But when you think about it, it’s no different from sleeping in hotel sheets and pillowcases. Anyway — here I am modelling/rocking four different sets of hotel pyjamas from four different hotel stays.

As we get braver with our travelling and start to explore a little further afield - and a little further off the beaten track - we’ve taken another look at the need for holiday vaccinations. Whilst I’m not afraid of needles, I don’t particularly like them, and having a jab / shot / injection isn’t something I’d describe as fun. I had previously used ChatGPT to “confirm” that no injections were necessary. This was achieved by making a generous number of assumptions and generally lying to myself. But as our South American trip drew closer, I decided to take off the rose-tinted glasses and take a much harder look at the risks of being vaccinated - or not. I quickly realised that neither I nor ChatGPT was best placed to carry out that risk assessment. No surprise there. Boots on the other hand did a sterling job of taking our trip details - where we were staying, what we were doing, and so on - and running them through their system to determine what was needed. We also checked everything with the NHS. Unsurprisingly, ChatGPT then agreed that this was a sensible strategy. So you can imagine my shock when, after discussing our plans with Boots and the practice nurse, we both ended up needing three boosters / vaccinations from the nurse (free on the NHS), plus a yellow fever vaccination sourced from the travel clinic at Boots. As an aside, since I asked the question: apparently there isn’t an upper limit to the number of vaccinations that can be given in a single visit — so I’m glad we stopped at three. I’m writing this now with two sore arms. Having realised I’d slightly underplayed the vaccination side of things, I thought it best to review our travel insurance as well. We’d been relying solely on the travel insurance that comes packaged with our AMEX Platinum card. On closer inspection, it isn’t quite what many people would consider five-star, particularly as several of the non-medical benefits are tied to paying for the holiday with AMEX - which isn’t always how we do things. So I used TopCashBack to compare policies that suited us better and have now topped up - or augmented - our existing AMEX cover with an additional policy. With the right vaccinations sorted and more than adequate insurance in place, I’m feeling very adult indeed - and just hoping the aching arms wear off soon.