Exploring the EV8, EV17 and EV19: A Journey Through Southern France to the Netherlands by Bicycle

My last multi-day solo cycle ever.

I wanted to summarise last summer's cycle before it becomes a distant memory.

It was my longest cycle to date - stats were 1982km with 9.6km of climbing over 21 days.

I set off in sun-drenched Nice, got very wet in the middle of France, and the weather eased nicely as I took a long tour around the Netherlands.

My route made good use of the EV network in France, Belgium and Netherlands - EV8 Mediterranean Route, the EV17 Rhône Cycle Route, and the EV19 Meuse Cycle Route.

Segment One: South of France to Lyon

My wife and I flew down to Nice, spent a few days exploring, before she flew home with my empty Thule bike box.

In Nice there was warm sun and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean coast as I headed west.

The landscape of the EV8 Mediterranean Route changed dramatically as I moved inland on the second day and started into more hilly terrain.

Navigating through this area presented its own set of challenges. Although the scenery was stunning, the signage was naff.

I relied heavily on Google Maps and my Garmin device for route planning - even after checking and re-checking I still got lost.

I'm no longer religious about following the EV route, or the planned route and don't like the idea of backtracking - always pushing forward in the general direction of the next stop.

This brings its own issues - hills, busy roads, crossing field etc. In between getting lost my trusty Trek 520 made long stretches comfortable, keeping me well-prepared for the diverse terrains.

The trek from Nice to Lyon was a mix of dedicated paths and rural roads, I had some nice lunches and got a feel of small village life.

I frequently paused to refuel with water, wine, beer and fresh pastries. My favourite menu de jour wasn't as prevalent on this cycle as it was during my 2024 cycle up the West coast from Toulouse.

The EV17 north along the Rhone to Lyon wasn't challenging, except that it was dull. Though I did like cycling along the river and getting to see the huge inland ships from time to time.

Segment Two: Lyon to Liège

Leaving Lyon marked a turning point in my journey.

The weather turned bad with lots of rain which made everything so much more difficult. As soon as it would dry up, there would be another downpour - my feet stayed consistently wet.

Thankfully I was able to completely dry out each night at the stops that I'd pre-booked - mostly in cheap hotels and B&Bs.

Throughout this segment, I had less defined cycle paths and more smaller roads to navigate There was very little of interest other than small villages from time to time against a very rural backdrop.

The days all felt very similar to each other until cycling up the steep hill into Langres - I felt as though I'd summitted - that the route would potentially change and offer more interesting cycling.

But - boy was I disappointed.

Whilst this was the start of the main event - the EV19 Meuse route that would be a very very gradual down hill to the sea. It turned out that this section of the Meuse route right through Northern France was pretty boring.

It did pick up a little in Belgium where the river narrowed and the cliff sides got higher and as i continued on through to Liège.

Segment Three: Liège to the Hook of Holland

When I eventually got to Liege, things started to pick up.

Whether it was the improvement in the weather, the more welcoming cycling paths - I'm not sure - but as the hills fell away and the broad expanse of the Meuse meandering through the Netherlands took hold - my mood lightened.

I had some epic B&B stays and some great food and a few beers as I took advantage of the easier days on good tarmac with fewer hills.

The Netherlands is made for cycling - its such a fine place.

Everywhere you can see examples of where the bike is treated as a priority over the car.

Meeting fellow cyclists on the road, sharing tales, and swapping tips transformed my solitary endeavour into a shared experience.

As I approached the Hook of Holland - you can see the ships over 5 km out, excitement surged within me, my speed picked up....

I was both happy to finish and sad that I would be finished.

Reflecting on My Journey

It wasn't an exciting cycle route.

In short I wouldn't recommend it. Your views may be different and its ok that we don't agree.

On the boat back to the UK, I said never again - my legs were sore, and spending 3 weeks solitary on the road was just a little too much for me.

But I honestly thought that would pass.

I've now taken an appropriate time for reflection. My legs having recovered.

Its still a hard no. I'm done.