Scrabo tower is 41m high and is built on a hill near Newtownards, Northern Ireland. It is visible from many miles away. Currently this iconic structure, hasn't actually got a lot to offer the visitor, other than a steep walk and a breathtaking 360 degree views. TL;DR I visited Scrabo Tower last week and wanted to know a little more about its history. The Origins of Scrabo Tower Scrabo Tower was constructed in 1857 as a memorial to the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry, Charles William, who was known for his contributions to the local community and his significant role in the area’s development. The tower was funded by the public - which demonstrates how much the local community valued the marquess and his contributions. At 168 years old, it remains a solid structure that is in good shape - which is impressive given its exposed position. And it doesn't look to be going anywhere in the next 168 years. Architectural Features Scrabo Tower is a prime example of the Scottish Baronial style - I'm not sure what that means. The tower appears to be currently closed to visitors - according to the Discover Northern Ireland website - but there is a virtual tour available here - https://discovernorthernireland.com/things-to-do/scrabo-tower-p675451 Planning Your Visit to Scrabo Tower If you are thinking of visiting Scrabo Tower, here are some practical tips. The tower is easily accessible by car, with ample parking available nearby. It is well-signposted, making it easy to find even for first-time visitors. 30mins to an hour is plenty of time for a visit - its a pleasant stop for a short walk.

The Gobbins Cliff Path isn't just your bog standard coastal walk. It's an energetic two hours spent navigating an interesting cliff path consisting of bridges and tunnels carved into the cliff rock, and just a few metres above the ever changing sea below. Is it Worth Visiting? If you're in Belfast, and have access to a car, this is one of Northern Ireland's cool half-day trips. It's a simple 30min drive north out of Belfast, to reach the Gobbins Visitors Centre, which has easy parking, cafe and toilets available. Booking and Arrival Booking is essential - as availability seems to fill up fast. We took a short minibus ride to the start of the walk. Groups are relatively small, with around 15 people on our tour. Safety and what to wear At the visitors centre we completed a short safety briefing, and tried on our helmets. Boots with ankle support are required - they aren’t optional - but suitable boots (not sure about socks) were available for hire for just £5.00, if required. There were maybe 5 or 6 groups on the cliff at any one time, and the people traffic was well managed with the various groups crossing over each other at wider parts of the trail. Additional staff are positioned along the route in case assistance is needed. What the walk is actually like We walked down the steps hill to sea level - where the walk started along the cliff path. There is a single guide for each group. You don’t get the option of exploring yourself and must remain with the group. The facts and figures from the tour guide were quite light - but the visitors centre and website has all the detail that you might want. It’s a walk out to an end point, turn around and then all the way back. Slower on the way out, as you stop frequently, pretty fast on the way back. The path remains close to sea level - so there shouldn’t be any issues for those that don’t like heights. The cabling and supports are all well maintained, so again no worries with safety. It was a warm July morning, and the wind was not bad. So shorts and a shirt were ideal to remain comfortable - I unfortunately went in jeans. Dress for the weather though - as it is obviously exposed. The views are pretty cool - you can see Scotland on a good day. Keep some energy in reserve for the walk back up to the minibus drop-off area. Wildlife We saw lots of seagulls up close and a few puffins swimming out at sea. History of Gobbins Cliff Path It's a cliff path walk dating back to 1901, built by the railway as a tourist attraction. Recently re-opened after some damage in the last couple of years - and thus very popular. The path was the vision of railway engineer Berkeley Deane Wise and was first opened in 1902 to encourage day rail tourism from Belfast. The engineering, and by that I mean the various bridges and tunnels, are as impressive as the scenery. If you do want all the detail - https://www.thegobbinscliffpath.com Final verdict It was a good long walk - nothing too strenuous or difficult - but a good solid 2 hour walk nonetheless. Leave 3 hours for the full experience, and arrive 15mins early to make use of the toilets. The cafe looked pretty good as well, and served snacks as well as lunches. Would I do it again? No, I don’t think so. Definitely something that I enjoyed - but once you’ve seen it once, I don’t think a second time would have the same impact. Certainly recommend it though.

Here’s how I cut Birmingham Airport parking from £99 to £76 in under two minutes. The Initial Prices Via the official site - https://www.birminghamairport.co.uk/parking I was looking for parking for a standard car for the following period; 17:00 16th July 2026 to 22:00 20th July 2026 Initial quotes ranged between £119.76 for Carpark 1 (1 min from the terminal) through to £62.99 for Car Park 7 (5 - 10 min bus ride from the terminal). Car Park 5 which is within walking distance was listed at £98.99. The quote was for their fully flexible product. Bookings can be amended or cancelled for a full cash refund up to 24 hours before arrival. I selected Car Park 7. The Upgrade Trick I was then offered an upgrade for £26 to Car Park 5, this was less than the £36 price difference, shown on the previous page. I opted for this and clicked through. Add a Voucher Code - Birmingham Airport parking discount There are plenty of vouchers kicking around for the Official Airport Parking. At the time of writing the following were available from a quick Google search; 10% off with BHXPARKING10 is available by signing up to their emails Better was PARKING15 which is highlighted on their discount codes page - https://www.birminghamairport.co.uk/parking/parking-promo-codes/ PARKING15 reduced the revised total of £88.99 by another £13.35 - meaning the cost was now £75.64. Final Saving Car Park 5 original price: £98.99 Car Park 7 booked first: £62.99 Upsell to Car Park 5: +£26 Revised total: £88.99 Voucher applied: £75.64 So I’m now paying 23% less than the sticker price of £98.99 for a car park within walking distance of the terminal. The key lesson: don’t assume the first listed price is the best available route.

I could see the dogs larking around in the road maybe 250 metres ahead of me. They spotted the red frame of the bike and locked onto it like a charging bull. They were soon up to speed, sprinting towards me as I grappled with the weight of my touring bags while turning back the way I’d come. Thankfully, I already had a good tailwind behind me and, after an initial 50 metres of wondering whether I’d make it or not, I was soon accelerating away from them. They continued the chase for another 500 metres before finally slowing down and looking confused as to where I’d gone. Between 2015 and 2024, I took on a number of multi-day, long-distance solo cycles in the UK, France, Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Each cycle was progressively longer in both distance and duration than the last. These trips defined the second phase of my lifelong cycle touring journey. At the time, it was a personal challenge — an expedition — and a way to manage my weight by staying fit throughout the year, ensuring that I was capable of covering the planned distances. It generally worked, I maintained as opposed to inflated further. When cycling high-mileage days, fuel was essential, making the food on these trips taste all the better — usually washed down with beer and wine. The Three Phases of My Cycling Life Phase Description Period 1 Family adventures with the kids Early years 2 Solo long-distance expeditions Working life 3 Relaxed cycling holidays with Jane Retirement Whilst I’ve cycled consistently throughout my life, I can now see that there have been distinct phases that only became apparent as I looked in the rear-view mirror over my many cycling adventures. In this set of blog posts, I look in detail at each phase, reflecting on the merits and challenges of each before deciding whether the relatively short period of Phase 3 is indeed the best time of my life. The Bikes and Touring Setup Cannondale CAAD9 road bike – mine Boardman Pro C road bike – mine Trek 520 dedicated steel touring bike – mine Four Ortlieb pannier bags I did have a few other bikes during this time - but doesn't everyone? Happy in My Own Company - Solo Cycle Touring The kids abandoned me, having developed other interests as they got older and no longer being excited about spending a week on a bike. Clubs, competitions, and other commitments became increasingly difficult to work around. Of course, this meant less supervision was needed for my now-teenage children, allowing me more time out on the bike. Initially, I dived into road biking, and over the years that gradually morphed into long-distance solo cycling, depending on mood, weather, and opportunity. Back then, it was still difficult to carve out a whole day for cycling, never mind a week or two. Work — or rather the amount of holiday time available — would generally get in the way. That said, I still managed quite a bit of cycling. My early road bike days were spent training for sportives and charity rides, many of which I completed. Memorable rides included; Charity rides — Oxford to Cambridge, 2x London to Brighton, and local Hospice rides General sportives — getting the early ferry to France for a day riding around Boulogne was a highlight, along with rides in Norfolk and the Four Counties sportive Others that I’ve since forgotten — a two-day cycle around London and a similar ride around Birmingham Most of these are still running but no longer hold the same interest for me. I never really enjoyed the crowds, the speed, or the waiting around. I realised that I was happier as a lone wolf — a solo cyclist who enjoyed nothing more than a summer evening or early weekend morning out on a road bike. That phase of cycling life suited me well for four or five years. As time moved on, the kids got older and work slowed as I eased into retirement, leaving more opportunity for longer-distance cycling. New bike day came on 31/05/2019 when I picked up my Trek 520 — purpose-built for touring, and purchased exactly for that. Paired with Ortlieb pannier bags, I was ready to go. Here’s how solo cycle touring shaped a stage of my life — and why that phase eventually ended. 2020 – Venice to Pisa Not quite solo, as I was joined by one of my now-grown-up children. We mixed cycling with trains as we made our way across Italy. We’d upgraded to hotel accommodation, which made everything much more civilised. Planning let me down, and exiting Venice via the Lido may have looked far more exciting and much shorter than it actually turned out to be. That lesson was noted for the future. That said, it was an enjoyable trip with plenty of laughs and excellent food. 2020 – Appian Way – Brindisi to Rome I’m not quite sure how I wangled this, as I was still a long way from retirement and work was exceptionally busy at the time. I flew into Brindisi with my bike packed in nothing more than a large plastic bag. I spent about ten days cycling, and occasionally taking trains, up to Rome, before repacking the bike into the same plastic bag for the return journey to Heathrow. It was still early days for me, and a number of issues quickly became apparent due to insufficient planning: Committing to too much distance each day Assuming Italy would always have suitable food stops available Discovering that dehydration is very real, as is completely running out of energy Realising that even in early October, the sun can still be brutally strong Learning that dogs can be friendly, aggressive, or both Italy seemed to have every variety. Most wild dogs were scared of their own shadow, but the kept dogs were fierce — thankfully, most were tied up. In the deeper parts of Italy, English also wasn’t widely spoken. The best moment came from another touring cyclist who questioned what possessed me to come to Italy without speaking Italian. Had I not been so exhausted from the climb up to the village, I would have answered: “The food and wine.” I’m fairly sure he would have understood. I also learned to double-check the altitude of accommodation. Why are so many places to stay halfway up a hill rather than on the valley floor? 2021 – Visiting Family I decided to cycle from Northampton to visit family just outside Belfast. The three days cycling there and the three days cycling back left only a couple of days for the actual visit, something that wasn’t immediately understood by everyone around me. It was an enjoyable trip, though. I visited friends on the first night and met my wife on the final night of the return journey, as it was only about forty miles from home. It was also on this trip that I was mistaken for a postman on three separate occasions. In hindsight, with all that red clothing, I probably did look like one. I did laugh, though. I was confused by what the first person said and asked for clarification. I could see where the second interaction was going but wasn’t quick enough. By the time the third person asked whether I had a parcel for them, I was ready: “Not today, love.” And off I cycled on my merry way. Cycling through central Birmingham on the canal paths turned out to be a mistake, made worse by the terrible weather. I think I chose a different route on the way home. 2022 – Netherlands and F1 at Zandvoort I really enjoy the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry and love the cycle paths in the Netherlands, so this trip felt inevitable. The ride down to Harwich went smoothly. By this point, my planning had improved considerably, and the route fitted comfortably into two full days. I spent a week cycling around the Netherlands, revisiting towns and cities we’d previously visited as a family before attending the Formula 1 at Zandvoort for the day. This was probably the first trip where I got nutrition, packing, pacing, and distance planning completely right. 2024 – Toulouse to St Malo My wife accompanied me on the flight to Toulouse and stayed the night before flying home with my massively oversized — and by then empty — Thule bike box. Over the following couple of weeks, I made my way north to St Malo, from where I caught the ferry home. Thankfully, along the west coast of France, there are plenty of tourists and English is widely spoken along the well-trodden tourist routes. Cycling along the Vélodyssée was excellent. The old railway lines minimise climbing and make for comfortable days in the saddle, as do the canal paths. Combined with good hosts and excellent food, it made for a thoroughly enjoyable tour. I used Booking.com frequently, as hotels are rarely directly on the route. 2024 – Queen Eleanor Route Over a couple of weekends, I rode the Queen Eleanor Route. The northbound leg from Northampton was a simple day ride, and I arranged to be collected at the end of the day. I took a few more days completing the southbound leg, stopping overnight before spending a day cycling into central London. It was wonderful cycling through London, and I think only on a bike could I truly appreciate the different communities and cultures as I passed through such distinct areas of the city. Cycling back via UK canal paths was a mistake. The towpaths simply aren’t the same as those in France — narrow, overgrown, and difficult to navigate. To this day, I still don’t understand why I didn’t just take the road. 2024 – Germany I left the car at Harwich and took the overnight ferry before spending a week cycling to Düsseldorf and back. The purpose of the trip — aside from stretching my legs on Western Europe’s fantastic cycle paths — was to rack up enough Hilton stays to qualify for a status upgrade before our Maldives holiday the following year. That plan worked perfectly. It was in Düsseldorf that I got wetter than I’ve ever been while fully clothed. The route, including the destinations, was largely determined by the locations of Hilton hotels within manageable daily distances — one of the advantages of retirement. That said, it was a fun few days. Had the weather been better, it would have been close to perfect. I can still smell the damp cycling clothes. 2025 – Monaco to Hook of Holland – The Last Solo Tour I was meant to enjoy this one. However, despite the planning and several excellent days of cycling, it soon became long and lonely. I mostly stuck to the original plan, completing long days in good weather, eating well, and staying in some lovely places. But it lacked the sense of adventure that the earlier tours had carried. Northern France into Belgium was the low point. There wasn’t much to see, and the availability of decent food stops had dried up. The lowlight was being chased by a pair of dogs. Thankfully, I had a tailwind, a straight road, and strong legs. Had they caught me, I’m convinced it would have ended badly. Things improved dramatically once I reached the Netherlands, so the journey wasn’t entirely wasted. I did begin planning another trip — LEJOG — and mapped out routes and hotels, but the excitement simply wasn’t there anymore. Hotels & Guest Houses When Solo Touring Hotels and small apartments have always been my preference. I know some people enjoy chatting with hosts or sharing dinner with strangers, but that has never really appealed to me. I prefer the anonymity of a hotel room or having an apartment entirely to myself. Some places I’ve stayed have been genuinely delightful and would have been wonderful to share with someone else. In fact, I’ve already returned to several of them with my wife to revisit the experience. Others — particularly many of the budget IBIS hotels that I frequently booked because of their price and location — were far less memorable, and I actively avoid them now. Eating alone in the evenings has also always been difficult. Touring demands calories, and calories demand proper meals. Three courses take time. I don’t read, so while others might bring a book to dinner, I usually relied on a phone and some music. Sleeping, however, was fantastic. Deep, uninterrupted sleep comes easily when you’ve spent all day cycling and there’s nobody there to wake you up because you’re snoring. The Cost of Solo Touring It’s annoyed me for years that a room for one costs the same as a room for two. I like value for money. Costs need managing, which is why I book early, stay in cheaper hotels, and sometimes skip cabins on ferry crossings. After all, it’s just somewhere to sleep. France, in particular, offers excellent value lunch menus. The “menu du midi” became a favourite. It encouraged an early start, a big lunch after a long morning in the saddle, and then another afternoon of cycling to justify a similarly generous dinner. Long-distance cycling is usually only a once-or-twice-a-year activity, making it a relatively affordable hobby overall. Solo Touring Is Cool — Until It Isn’t Anymore It was a great period of my life. I genuinely enjoyed every aspect of it. Planning was possibly my favourite part — deciding routes, finding accommodation, breaking journeys into manageable days, and creating routes for my Garmin. Execution was more mixed. There were highs and lows, but I always assumed I would eventually look back fondly on both. I explored countless paths, took endless wrong turns, and rode over tarmac, gravel, and mud. Breakfasts were sometimes provided by accommodation; otherwise, they were supermarket rolls eaten in a car park while dressed in cycling gear. I loved it at the time. Why the Solo Touring Years Eventually Ended The final tour — my longest in both distance and duration — often felt like hard work. Hard work when you’re enjoying yourself is fine. Hard work when you simply want it to end is something else entirely. I finished with that familiar mixture of achievement and “never again” that I’d experienced many times before. But this time was different. After twenty days, 1,900km of cycling, and 19km of climbing, I knew it really was my last solo tour. A year later, I began planning LEJOG. I mapped out the route and identified the hotels, but deep down I knew it no longer appealed to me. Looking Ahead to Phase 3 – Relaxed Cycling Holidays I had already bought my wife an electric bike, and we had completed a couple of week-long cycling holidays together in the Netherlands and France. It had already become obvious that sharing the experience was far more enjoyable. I suppose I had to experience solo touring fully in order to appreciate that. We had both retired and finally had the time to enjoy cycling together at a slower, more relaxed pace.

Between 2007 and 2014, I cycled large sections of the North Sea Cycle Route (EV1) with my children, camping across Denmark, Norway, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and the UK. These trips were the first phase of what became a lifelong cycle touring journey. I’ve a distinct memory of cycling down a steep winding road in Oslo with two of my kids. All was good until they decided to race each other fuelled by Haribo, and were soon out of sight. They are in their 20s now. At the time it just felt like a camping holiday. Looking back now, I realise it was the first phase of a cycling life that would evolve, in quite individual phases, over the next twenty years. The Three Phases of My Cycling Life Phase Description Period 1 Family adventures with the kids Early years 2 Solo long-distance expeditions Working life 3 Relaxed cycling holidays with Jane Retirement Whilst I’ve constantly cycled throughout my life - I can see that there have been three distinct phases that have only become apparent to me as I look in my rear view mirror over my many cycling adventures. In this set of blog posts - I look in detail at each of the three distinct cycling phases, reflecting on the merits and challenges of each, before deciding whether the relatively short time of Phase 3 is indeed the best time of my life. The Bikes and Touring Setup Claud Butler Rock, mountain bike - Mine Small Specialised, mountain bike - Kids Kids trailer, repurposed to carry luggage & camping gear Discovering the North Sea Cycle Route (EV1) I stumbled upon the North Sea Cycle Route, not sure how or why, but I imagine it was via EV1 signage that I saw on holiday either in Scandinavia, Netherlands or France. Either way - once I saw the expanse of the route I was immediately drawn to trying to complete as much of it as possible. I read an interesting book called cycling back to happiness by Bernie Friend that further piqued my interest. I remember setting a goal to complete all 6,000km when I retired. We’ll get to that later. At this point in time I wasn’t aware of or interested in the other EV routes - I was that smitten. I was in my 30s - those were the days. Information on the internet wasn’t that great - google maps had only been launched and needed a desktop! Planning was fairly minimal anyway with shorter daily distances, with plenty of stops. The kids rode bikes without any luggage, and I hauled a trailer full of clothes and camping gear. The general format was to get dropped off at the port by my obliging wife, or take the car and leave it parked at the UK port. The idea of using trains (which would have involved multiple changes) to and from UK ports - wasn’t something that I was prepared to consider. (Think three bikes, trailer, two young kids) Between 2007 and 2014, I cycled large sections of the North Sea Cycle Route with my children, hauling camping gear across Denmark, Norway, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and of course the UK. Looking back those were the first years that formed the first chapter of my cycle touring life. Annual Family Cycling Adventures 2007 - Denmark and the DFDS Ferry to Esbjerg Esbjerg(DK) to Struer(DK). This was when there was a DFDS ferry that sailed from Harwich(UK) to Esbjerg(DK), and a regular commuter train could take us back to Esbjerg(DK). At one point we happened upon the Danish Army playing war games - picture tanks, tents and soldiers. 2008 - Norway, Ferries and Pulpit Rock Stavanger(N) to Bergen(N). Long gone is the P&O ferry that sailed from Newcastle(UK) to Stavanger(N), Haugesund(N) and then Bergen(N). Navigating our way along the west coast of Norway was a challenge and involved a good number of ferries, and significant climbs. Campsites were few and far between, but we managed without having to wild camp - which is perfectly acceptable in Scandinavia. We visited Pulpit rock near Stavanger for the first time, and met a German man without a filter. My 8 year old got to hear how English fish and chips had gave him a ‘Sweaty Asshole’. Never did get his name. 2009 - Dunkirk to Hook or Holland Dunkirk(F) to Hook of Holland(NL). Ferry from Hull(UK) to Zeebrugge(B) before cycling down to Dunkirk(F) to the most southernmost point of the North Sea Cycle Route. I’m not sure what was in my head - I think it was a combination of filling time on what was a short cycle, and the purist in me. Cycling north returning to Hull(UK) from Hook of Holland(NL). 2010 - Flying with Bikes to Hamburg Flying into Hamburg(DE) from London was a first for us. I felt guilty abandoning our cardboard packing boxes at the airport - there just wasn’t a bin big enough. Having rebuilt the bikes on landing at the airport, we cycled up to Esbjerg(DK), to catch the ferry back to Harwich(UK). We’d connected two segments for the first time. 2011 - Gothenburg, Oslo and Denmark No simple ferry routes, so we flew in and out of Gothenburg. Large lockers were available at the airport for our packing box, stuffed with the cycle bags. We cycled up to Oslo, took the ferry south to Hirtshals(DK), leaving Denmark from Grenaa(DK), and cycling back up to Gothenburg, where we retrieved the packing box and cycle bags for a flight home. These were still the days when a large clear bag for £5 from Wiggle was acceptable as a bike bag. I miss those days. 2012 - Cycling the UK Coastline UK based. Train to Edinburgh, were I immediately picked up a puncture, before cycling south, swapping the kids around because of their increasing other commitments before cycling south as far as we could in the time we had. Cycling over the Humber bridge was a highlight. We made it to Fakenham, 2013 - Holland to Hamburg Hook of Holland(NL) to Hamburg(D), where we met up with my wife and daughter, who had travelled over with empty packing boxes and bags for our flight home. We had a great few days in Hamburg. 2014 - Completing the English Section UK based Dropped off where we finished in 2012, Fakenham, and cycled south to Harwich - completing the English Section of the North Sea Cycle Route. UK cycling is not as cool as Cycling in mainland Europe. The EV1 was still under developed, and hadn’t been properly discovered. Camping, Hotels and Travelling with Kids Camping mostly, though as we all got older, and I got a bit wiser with booking accommodation we opted for occasional hotels - allowing for more of a deep clean between campsites. We were 100% camping in 2007, and by 2014 100% hotels. The Cost of Family Cycle Touring Costs were always reasonable. Ferries without a car were cheap, though overnight travel required the expense of a cabin. Campsites were on the most part reasonably priced, as were small hotels along the route - especially when booked well in advance. Kids prefer snacks and familiar food - so simple pasta and sauces were a big favourite. Drinks were minimal - I needed to be a responsible parent. Why Those Years Were So Special It was a great time. What kid doesn’t love camping and the outdoors. The EV1 cycle paths are so much better than anything that we have in the UK, and the campsites are ideally situated along the route. The coastal route has lots to see and do, with lots of opportunities for both food and drinks. Miles were covered, powered on a heady cocktail of bananas, chocolate and Coca Cola. We got sunburnt, soaked, roasted and were freezing over the years. We debated super heroes, recorded road kill, debated what animal would beat what other animal in a fight. I loved it. I think the kids only remember the good times, and the many hours of boring cycling have been put to the back of their heads. Breakfasts were usually rolls or buns in a supermarket carpark. Over the years we did so many sections of the route - either with one or two kids, depending on their capability, experience and interest. Eventually though their interest waned. I did take one of the kids away again many years later - he was probably 18 - from Venice to Pisa. He swore he would never do similar again with me ever! Why the Family Touring Years Eventually Ended The kids developed other interests as they got older, and were less excited about a week on a bike. Clubs, competitions and other commitments got increasingly more difficult to work around. The accessible portions of the route that could be completed within a week or 10 days were fewer and more costly. Looking Ahead to Phase 2 - Solo Long Distance Cycling I had got a little plump and required a little more exercise. Whilst life had become busier I was also enjoying earlier mornings and longer days in the saddle on my road bike. I was also happy with my own company. Family cycling touring and cycle camping with kids was behind me for now, but I felt I still had a few long rides in me.

Two plus years into retirement, and we are still enjoying the freedom to slow down, travel at our own pace, and revisit some of our favourite corners of Europe by bike. This post is a lead-in for our trip. Over the coming weeks, during our travels, I plan to publish detailed daily posts covering our accommodation, ferry crossings, quality of cycling routes, the great food that I’m hoping to have, logistics and stats, costs, and the highlights (and I’m sure occasional mishaps) along the way. Our Relaxed French Cycle Plan Our plan for our French cycle this year is relaxed. We will take the car loaded with bikes on the overnight Brittany Ferries sailing from Portsmouth across to Caen. We roll off the ferry stupidly early in the morning. Then, we’ll take the day to drive down in a leisurely manner. We can’t check in until 15:00, so we have plenty of time to explore. Our southernmost stop will be La Roche-sur-Yon, where we’ll spend our first couple of nights. We have passed through so many times; it will be good to stop and look around. Over the following week, we will drive up to St Malo, revisiting some of the many places we’ve previously enjoyed. We’ll be taking in some cycling as and when we can. Overnight Stops These overnight stops include: Beauvoir-sur-Mer: We plan to revisit a top restaurant in the middle of nowhere. The chef was a wizard. Saint-Michel-Chef-Chef: We’ll catch up with an old friend—spoiler alert, it’s a caravan. Quiberon: Known for its dramatic coastline and excellent seafood restaurants. We visited years ago when the kids were young. Le Tronchet: This spot offers peaceful cycling and quiet Breton roads. While St Malo is nice, it will be good to be outside the busy city. I’m sure there will also be plenty of stops in between. The last stop on our journey is a few days in Guernsey with family before returning home to the UK by ferry. Our ideal days are simple: quiet roads, coastal cycle paths, good coffee stops, large lunches, and plenty of sunshine while cycling along the back roads and cycle paths of the west coast of France. I think we are all prepped and ready to go. Well, we’d better be. Packing for the Adventure Most of the preparation is done. Retirement certainly helps—there’s plenty of time for lists, checks, double-checks, mulling stuff over, and gradually gathering everything together. Thankfully, the kids have mostly moved out, so there is plenty of room to lay stuff out. All that really remains now is packing the clothes, loading the car, and mounting the bikes. We’ve left the whole of Tuesday clear to get all of that done, and the ferry doesn’t leave until 23:00 that night. Our Bikes I’m taking my red Trek 520. I’ve fitted new tyres, removed the racks—no need to cart all our gear with us this time around—and given it a good clean. Jane’s bike is a Cube Touring Hybrid EXC, with a battery that will do 100+ km if looked after correctly, and she avoids the boost button. Jane will have a single pannier on her bike to carry essential tools, locks, additional water, and snacks—should we need them. No wet weather gear this time around either. The forecast is great, and we’ll do something else on any days that are inclement. We’ll sort specific daily plans, routes, and GPS as we go, taking wind strength and direction and sun conditions into consideration—not forgetting how tired our legs are or how much wine we had the night before. Bike Carrier Setup I got a tow bar fitted to the car last year for the single purpose of fitting a bike carrier for this and similar adventures. Our bike rack is the Thule EuroWay G2. It’s compact. I did a fair amount of research and purchased it from Amazon. They have since upgraded the specific model, and I’m sure they’ve put up the price as well. One thing I was slightly concerned about was the weight of the bikes—especially the e-bike. It’s a struggle to lift. I spent quite a bit of time checking tow bar weights and the Thule bike rack specifications before settling on this setup. As an aside, I learned through that process how to pronounce Thule—it’s ‘TOO-lee’. You really do learn something each day. The bike battery will go inside the car for security and improved weight distribution—it is 3.5 kg. I’m pretty sure some high-end bikes don’t even weigh that! Practice Run for Smooth Sailing I don’t like surprises, so I’ve done my best to minimise them. I’ve fitted the detachable tow bar—or should that be I’ve attached and detached the detachable tow bar many times? It’s surprisingly simple once you get the hang of it. I’ve attached and detached the bike rack a few times. I expect that this will loosen during the journey and will need some tightening. I’ve loaded and unloaded the bike rack a number of times. Everything needed adjusting to ensure that the bikes fitted properly and didn’t rub together. It’s then that you appreciate how well the bike carrier has been built. I even took photos of the pedal positions of the bikes when loaded onto the bike carrier to ease the subsequent daily loading and unloading. Lastly, I took the car for a quick spin—just to make sure that nothing falls off. God knows what it would have looked like if it did, or what I would have done. Anyway, everything looks okay. We have also been for a short cycle today to ensure that the bikes don’t have any flaws, and I guess we’ve tested that we haven’t forgotten how to cycle ourselves. Being used to a road bike, the touring bike did feel quite different, but the Brooks seat that I’ve been gradually wearing in for a few years now felt familiar and comfortable. A Holiday, Not an Expedition This isn’t about mileage or getting from A to B before dark, like so many of my other cycling trips have been. It’s about trying something new together that appeals to both our interests—cycling (me) and sunshine (her), along with great food and wine (both). This trip will help shape some of our future plans—maybe something longer, something unsupported. I’m really not sure. I have aspirations to do LEEJOG or get the boat to Spain and cycle back home, but I’ve found these to be long and lonely. So, this is a good alternative. Pre-booked Itinerary for Our French Cycle Portsmouth → Caen (Overnight Ferry) Drive to La Roche-sur-Yon (2 nights) Drive northbound via: - Beauvoir-sur-Mer (2 nights) - Saint-Michel-Chef-Chef (2 nights) - Quiberon (2 nights) - Le Tronchet (1 night) St Malo → Guernsey - St Martins (3 nights) Guernsey → Portsmouth Next Up: The Journey Begins Leaving the house, the drive down to the port, the overnight crossing from Portsmouth to Caen—including boarding, cabin impressions, food on board, and whether sleeping on a ferry before a long drive is actually a good idea. PS - better photos will follow in the specific daily write-ups.

One of the wheels on our large Tripp suitcase finally gave up while I was dragging it around Japan. It was a long walk from the station to the hotel, trying to keep the suitcase balanced on it’s remaining three wheels. Anyway. When I got home I contacted Tripp thinking I could just buy a replacement for the failed wheel. It’s an older suitcase and has had a good long life. It’s survived airports, train stations, cobbled streets, and more flights than I can count, so didn’t expect or ask for a warranty repair. Tripp confirmed that it was indeed an aged suitcase, and as such that replacement wheels were no longer stocked. To their credit, they suggested a third-party replacement on Amazon that had apparently worked well for other customers. https://amzn.to/4xBCDRB That's my affiliate link - that I'm playing around with at the moment - it earns me a few pennies if you click through to buy. For the large suitcase - we went for the 50mm wheel size - which I felt was the correct size. The axle that goes through the wheel, fits tightly - but does feel a little longer than it needs to be. It did take a bit of effort to make the change. I had to hacksaw out the failed wheel and, because the replacement wheel seemed much sturdier, I ended up replacing the other three as well. Perhaps an electric saw would make the swap over easier. The suitcase now glides. It really does. It's got a second life and feels so much more youthful. It became one of those satisfying DIY wins that I've quietly congratulated myself on each time I use the suitcase. Course no one else cares and given how simple it was wouldn't be that impressed either. I continue to be very proud of my handy work. So much so I then ordered the same new wheels for its twin, and performed the same wheel surgery. One day, though, I know the suitcases will eventually die. For the price of a replacement set of wheels and an hour with a hacksaw, these well travelled suitcases have earned themselves a few more years of travel.

United WiFi in the Sky Yes, in short - airline Wi-Fi is mostly shite. Well, sort of. Somewhere over Scotland on the way to the US, on a 9-hour United Airlines flight, I made what should have been a simple decision: “I’ll buy the Wifi”. Easy decision, and what should have been a simple task. But it didn’t work like it should. It should be as simple as making a cup of tea or turning on a TV - but it’s not. It’s not a simple button click, where you enter your credit card details and you are online. No. Here’s what I experienced and what annoyed me. It did that nobby thing with the lead in prices - classic bait-and-switch. So what I thought was a commitment of $7.99 for Wi-Fi for the flight, changed to $7.99 for just one hour. Only then was the price for the duration of the flight displayed as $14.99. I guess if nothing else, by comparison it meant that the flight price for the full 9 hours of $14.99, looked quite cheap. Except that I’ve been pissing around for an hour now trying to get the internet to work on the laptop. I’m now considering trying wifi on the phone and then hoping to tether my laptop to the phone connectivity. As an aside - I’m writing in real time - the cabin crew are giving off in a SPRITed fashion about vegetarians - which feels a little harsh, especially as at least the last 4 rows can hear their ranting. They aren’t service oriented individuals on this airline. Efficient, by not service orientated. Trying to type details into my phone - why should it work on my phone and not on my laptop? Hooray - it worked I’m connected to wifi now on my phone - albeit to the slowest of slow internet connections. Bugger, my personal hotspot is disabled - no tethering option. Bugger. Now what? Online help suggested I could “switch devices”, phone to laptop…. At this point I had the confidence level of a man trying to repair a nuclear reactor armed only with a spoon. Still…what else am I going to do with 8 hours? I gave it a go. Followed some pretty simple instructions, clicked on a button, and….wait, what? Expelliarmus. I shit you not. It worked. It’s witchcraft a la Harry Potter and his mates. United Airlines you are all forgiven! What followed was a further happy 7+ hours of doomscrolling nonsense around the internet. Not sure it was productive - but at least I was happy. Our Next Flight On our next flight from Denver (DEN) to Puerto Vallarta (PVR) - yep we were going on holiday! We had Starlink. It was easy to connect to - same way via the App, and then switch devices. But even better it was FREE, and oh so fast. So, Starlink = brilliant. If its one of United Airlines’ older wifi suppliers then lower your expectations and bring some patience. You’ll need it. Starlink is such a completely different experience. Fast, free, simple — exactly how airline wifi should work in 2026. No buffering, streaming worked, pages loaded instantly, social media/video worked - what’s not to like? Now if someone could explain to me how they attached a satellite dish to the plane - that would be appreciated. United Airlines website says that Starlink Wi-Fi is already available on selected flights, as I experienced. And that it is rolling out Starlink Wi-Fi across its fleet. Wi-Fi connectivity will be free to their MileagePlus members - and that isn’t just messaging - but full blown connectivity. As another aside, I was impressed when the efficient crew quickly interjected by slapping down one of those tossers - we’ve all come across them, started to watch their TikToks out loud without any headphones. But Wi-Fi in the sky - this feels like a massive step forward - connectivity is a God given right now - isn’t it? Back Home Thinking back on our experience - having done 4 flights in all with United Airlines…. It’s not a massive step forward in technology, it’s more a massive step forward in the product offering and such a welcome one. I thought that maybe United Airlines had got the jump on the competition. Nah ! Having done a quick surf of the internet on my non-Starlink home Wi-Fi - its evident that all the other airlines are catching up - if not already ahead. Having had a look at the Starlink website - it appears that typical install takes between 2 and 4 days, though this can extend to an additional 2 or 3 weeks if cabinets, panels and other interior features need to be swapped out. I imagine this work would be done during the frequent maintenance cycles that aircraft undergo. I could try to explain the merits of Starlink v’s the competition now, and then go into how it works and what its advantages are - but there is a website for that www.starlink.com. The Future Have a look at the Wi-Fi details offered for your next flight - for there is a good chance that the aircraft will already be Starlink enabled and perhaps even your Wi-Fi will be free. The industry is trending in a single direction - even in economy seating we all get a seat, a light, a little air vent. In 2026 expect to get bundled Wi-Fi in your ticket price. Don’t be getting too excited though - you won’t be getting this free service on the Low Cost Carriers such as Ryanair, EasyJet or Jet2 - well not for now anyway. In 2025 Wi-Fi in the air felt like an overpriced gimmick - it was slow and pretty useless. In 2026 it's becoming part of the expected bundle. Once you the passenger experiences fast, free connectivity in the air, there’s really no scrolling back.

When it comes to witnessing the Northern Lights, Iceland is often mentioned as a first destination. It has become synonymous with this spectacular natural phenomenon. However, I'd suggest - based on my personal experience that there’s another and better alternative that deserves its fair share of attention: Tromsø, Norway. Nothing beats Iceland though for its splendid geology. I’d argue that Tromsø should be recognised as a better destination for Northern Lights enthusiasts. When they are at full dance, filling the sky above - the Aurora Borealis really does feel magical, unbelievable even spiritual. The Allure of the Northern Lights The Northern Lights, also known as the Aurora Borealis, are a breathtaking natural light display seen mainly in high-latitude regions. They occur due to a complex interaction between solar wind and the Earth's magnetic field. They aren’t just green - at their best they are a show of vibrant colours that on a good night swoop, jump and dance across the night sky. Truly engaging - and certain to give a sore neck. While Iceland is widely associated with the lights, Tromsø has proven, to me anyway, as a much better bet - having successfully seen the lights in 2 of 4 visits, against a 1 of 5 visits to Iceland. In addition the 2 shows in Tromsø were 10 times better than the fairly dull show that I experienced in Iceland. Tromsø: A Hidden Gem Tromsø's location above the Arctic Circle extends its Northern Lights season, typically running from late September to early April. A local told me that February was the best time - that said we were all drunk at the time, and not sure, beyond his experience, how qualified he was. This longer viewing window increases the chances of seeing the aurora, but of course doesn’t give any guarantees. Statistically though - google tells me that Tromsø offers up to 80% of clear nights during this period, compared to Iceland's 60%. I believe that it has something to do with being near the sea. Accessibility and Convenience Tromsø is easily reachable, with direct flights from major European cities like Oslo, London, and Frankfurt. Once in Tromsø, it’s a small city, visitors can choose from various tour operators that offer Northern Lights excursions. These range from guided tours to self-drive adventures. Many of these tours include knowledgeable guides who share insights into the science and folklore surrounding the aurora, elevating the overall experience. They will literally drive miles during the night - speaking to colleagues to find a good spot for viewing. My Experience I flew into Tromsø from London LHR. I've taken the bus from the airport to the city, a taxi, and on one occassion walked - it was a nice day, and I'd arrived well before check-in. I've stayed in one of the cheaper chain hotels - Comfort Hotel Xpress Tromso. Small room, good value and well situated. I've also stayed at one of the more expensive harbour hotels - Home Hotel With. Much larger room, great value when you take into account the included breakfast, fika, and evening meal. We took a bus tour - it was a full coach of people, leaving early evening just after dark, stayed out to early morning, driving significant distances to get to areas where lights had either been spotted or were predicted. Having successfully seen the lights we returned back to our hotel at around 02:00, having had a bit of a snooze on the bus. Optimal Viewing Conditions While both Iceland and Tromsø boast opportunities to see the Northern Lights, Tromsø's geographical advantages set it apart. The coast of Norway appears to provide more variance in conditions that the wider open spaces in Iceland - that is how it was explained to us anyway. The city is situated in a region known for relatively stable weather patterns, which leads to clearer skies—crucial for aurora viewing since clouds can obstruct the view. Boat tours to see the Northern Lights are available - though I’m not clear whether these provide a significant advantage over a relatively fast moving bus. Discover Tromsø's Wonders Tromsø is the hidden gem for a number of other reasons. It’s a busy accessible compact city within the artic circle with good connectivity to the rest of Europe. There are a good number and range of hotel accommodation. It has fantastic scenery accessible during all seasons, offering different experiences throughout. So have a look at the flights (google flights), hotels (booking.com), and experiences (Viator) available, book, visit, love it - and thank me later. Happy travels!

The Harland and Wolff cranes, towering over the Belfast skyline, are not just engineering icons; they are Belfast. These iconic structures, known locally as Samson and Goliath have witnessed the rise and fall of shipbuilding in Belfast Habour and have become a symbol of the city itself. Gantry Cranes The cranes, known locally and affectionately as Samson and Goliath - always in that order, dominate the skyline of Belfast. From a quick Google - the first, Goliath, was completed in July 1969, and Samson was completed in May 1974. I was born in 1968, and grew up just outside Belfast, and I've only ever known the cityscape as having the two cranes. The cranes are pretty much identical to the layman - same paintwork, same design, with a span of 140m and working load of a massive 840 tonnes. Goliath has an overall height of 96m, and big brother Samson has another 10m at 106m. Only when the cranes are close together is the difference visible. Landmarks Their bright yellow colour and distinctive shapes made them easily recognisable, and they soon became a source of pride for the local community, and still are today. I've even got a Christmas hanging decoration of one of them = which takes pride of place on my tree each year. You know your home when you spot them - and that is easily done from all over the city, but especially good when coming in from the air and landing at the close by City Airport, or arriving by boat into the nearby Belfast port. Decline of the Shipbuilding Industry By the 1990s, the shipyard had closed its doors. Many feared that these iconic structures would be dismantled or left to rust and deteriorate. However, the cranes were granted listed status, protecting them from demolition and thus ensuring their preservation for future generations. Thankfully the area around the cranes continues to be redeveloped - the Titanic Quarter, is a busy redevelopment project, and has transformed the former inaccessible shipyard into a hub for tourism, education, and business. The cranes are a perfect backdrop, reminding visitors of the city's past. As Belfast continues to change, the Harland and Wolff cranes are a constant. Belfast is a great city for a weekend visit. Update August 2026 Having sat still for many years, these mighty cranes are being brought back to life under a £3.1 million overhaul, so that they are once again used for ship building. This is part of a near £100 million investment being made in the shipyard to build new ships for the Royal Navy.

We had a great night out visiting old and new bars in Belfast - Rattlebag, The Crown, The Observatory and Laverys. TL;DR Going on a pub crawl with my 20 year old daughter was a great night out. We spent a rainy Sunday night in Belfast enjoying the drinks in some of Belfast's most iconic bars. Whilst I told stories of how I spent my early 20's in Belfast. Rattlebag Our adventure kicked off with cocktails at the very nice - Rattlebag. I had been there earlier in the week, and we were maybe a little early, as this place really gets its vibe right when its dard outside. I loved the concept - glass of water, introduced to a refreshing approach to cocktails, all listed on the menu. They looked great and tasted lovely - service was great. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186470-d23479651-r1023746205-Rattlebag-Belfast_Northern_Ireland.html The Crown Liquor Saloon Next was The Crown - a historic pub from the 19th century - always worth a visit. Walking inside is like stepping into another era. The stunning Victorian decor, complete with stained glass windows and intricate ceilings, created an inviting and grand atmosphere. The booths are great if there is a small crowd of you - but good luck getting one. It seems you can also reserve them. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186470-d718573-r1024357112-Crown_Liquor_Saloon-Belfast_Northern_Ireland.html The Observatory Another new bar for me. The Observatory is on the top floor of the Grand Central Hotel and has such a fantastic 360 view of Belfast. We worked our way around the windows as I related stories for each new area that we were looking at. Favourite view was over the City Hall, with the cranes in the background. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186470-d24043561-r1024357683-The_Observatory-Belfast_Northern_Ireland.html Laverys The last stop for the night was Laverys - it has been there as long as I can remember - but has been significantly refurbished since the days I was a student in Belfast. Quick service at the bar, some change, cues and we were set for a few games of pool. It was a nice crowd in there - probably due to it being a Sunday night and just that bit quieter. Again the Guinness was great. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186470-d24043561-r1024357683-The_Observatory-Belfast_Northern_Ireland.html Pub Crawl Food As the night drew to a close, we had a dodgy pizza from across the road in Shaftsbury Square before getting a taxi out of town. Looking back on our wee adventure. We had shared laughter, stories, committed to doing Park Run together when she is home. We were well behaved and didn't have too many drinks. Lasting Impressions Our pub crawl through Belfast was a fantastic way to explore the city together. From expensive cocktails to history, jaw dropping views, to playing an hour of pool - each pub had its own charm, and warmth. If you find yourself in Belfast, take the time to dive into its incredible pub scene. Whether enjoying a quiet pint in a historic establishment or soaking up the lively atmosphere in one of the newer bars, there’s truly something for everyone. Here's our instagram post - https://www.instagram.com/p/DNOJndnsdcz/ Happy Travels!

My last multi-day solo cycle ever. I wanted to summarise last summer's cycle before it becomes a distant memory. It was my longest cycle to date - stats were 1982km with 9.6km of climbing over 21 days. I set off in sun-drenched Nice, got very wet in the middle of France, and the weather eased nicely as I took a long tour around the Netherlands. My route made good use of the EV network in France, Belgium and Netherlands - EV8 Mediterranean Route, the EV17 Rhône Cycle Route, and the EV19 Meuse Cycle Route. Segment One: South of France to Lyon My wife and I flew down to Nice, spent a few days exploring, before she flew home with my empty Thule bike box. In Nice there was warm sun and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean coast as I headed west. The landscape of the EV8 Mediterranean Route changed dramatically as I moved inland on the second day and started into more hilly terrain. Navigating through this area presented its own set of challenges. Although the scenery was stunning, the signage was naff. I relied heavily on Google Maps and my Garmin device for route planning - even after checking and re-checking I still got lost. I'm no longer religious about following the EV route, or the planned route and don't like the idea of backtracking - always pushing forward in the general direction of the next stop. This brings its own issues - hills, busy roads, crossing field etc. In between getting lost my trusty Trek 520 made long stretches comfortable, keeping me well-prepared for the diverse terrains. The trek from Nice to Lyon was a mix of dedicated paths and rural roads, I had some nice lunches and got a feel of small village life. I frequently paused to refuel with water, wine, beer and fresh pastries. My favourite menu de jour wasn't as prevalent on this cycle as it was during my 2024 cycle up the West coast from Toulouse. The EV17 north along the Rhone to Lyon wasn't challenging, except that it was dull. Though I did like cycling along the river and getting to see the huge inland ships from time to time. Segment Two: Lyon to Liège Leaving Lyon marked a turning point in my journey. The weather turned bad with lots of rain which made everything so much more difficult. As soon as it would dry up, there would be another downpour - my feet stayed consistently wet. Thankfully I was able to completely dry out each night at the stops that I'd pre-booked - mostly in cheap hotels and B&Bs. Throughout this segment, I had less defined cycle paths and more smaller roads to navigate There was very little of interest other than small villages from time to time against a very rural backdrop. The days all felt very similar to each other until cycling up the steep hill into Langres - I felt as though I'd summitted - that the route would potentially change and offer more interesting cycling. But - boy was I disappointed. Whilst this was the start of the main event - the EV19 Meuse route that would be a very very gradual down hill to the sea. It turned out that this section of the Meuse route right through Northern France was pretty boring. It did pick up a little in Belgium where the river narrowed and the cliff sides got higher and as i continued on through to Liège. Segment Three: Liège to the Hook of Holland When I eventually got to Liege, things started to pick up. Whether it was the improvement in the weather, the more welcoming cycling paths - I'm not sure - but as the hills fell away and the broad expanse of the Meuse meandering through the Netherlands took hold - my mood lightened. I had some epic B&B stays and some great food and a few beers as I took advantage of the easier days on good tarmac with fewer hills. The Netherlands is made for the bicycle - its such a fine place. Everywhere you can see examples of where the bike is treated as a priority over the car. Meeting fellow cyclists on the road, sharing tales, and swapping tips transformed my solitary endeavour into a shared experience. As I approached the Hook of Holland - you can see the ships over 5 km out, excitement surged within me, my speed picked up.... I was both happy to finish and sad that I would be finished. Reflecting on My Bicycle Journey It wasn't an exciting cycle route. In short I wouldn't recommend it. Your views may be different and its ok that we don't agree. On the boat back to the UK, I said never again - my legs were sore, and spending 3 weeks solitary on the road was just a little too much for me. But I honestly thought that would pass. I've now taken an appropriate time for reflection. My legs having recovered. Its still a hard no. I'm done.