Lima
- RetiredCormac
- 10 hours ago
- 3 min read
Leaving the airport for the hotel, we were hit immediately by the heat and humidity.
Even at 11pm on a Saturday night, the traffic was chaotic — endless beeping in near standstill conditions, cars edging forward together but going nowhere. The driving style felt… optimistic. Vehicles squeezed into impossibly small gaps and travelled so close together that I was genuinely surprised not to see more accidents. Cars were a mix of shiny new cars and ageing veterans, and from what we could tell, a few broken-down old motors (plus roadworks) were adding to the congestion.
We stayed in a lovely, quieter part of Miraflores — noticeably calmer and feeling very safe. We ventured into the historic centre once for a guided walk, and although the tour with Haku Tours was enjoyable, getting there and back took nearly an hour each way thanks to the traffic.
Back nearer the coast, we joined Haku again for a cycle tour around Miraflores and Barranco. It was technically a group tour, but as it turned out, it was just Jane and me — effectively a private ride, which made it all the more enjoyable.
Cycling along the coastal path, we experienced the cooling effect of La garúa — the dense sea mist that drifts in from the Pacific. It genuinely feels like natural air conditioning for the city. Move just a few hundred metres inland, though, and the temperature difference is striking.
UV levels here regularly climb above 10 at midday, so sun protection is essential.
While relaxing by the pool one afternoon, we experienced a 5.0 earthquake — my first that I’ve actually noticed. It didn’t last long enough to cause concern, but it certainly added a bit of drama to an otherwise lazy day.
We’ve walked, run and cycled extensively around Miraflores and would happily recommend it as a base in Lima. It’s on the opposite side of the city from the airport, so I’m particularly glad we’re flying out early on a Sunday morning when traffic should (hopefully) be kinder. Uber has been plentiful and reliable throughout our stay.
Breakfast at the Hilton has been superb — complimentary thanks to the Diamond status I’ve worked hard to maintain. We’ll rack up 23 Hilton nights on this South American trip, which means 23 × 2 substantial breakfasts. They’re big enough to justify skipping lunch altogether. Conservatively estimating £30 per day in savings, that’s close to £700 saved across the holiday — not insignificant.
Pisco sours? We tried one. That was enough for me — I’ll stick to beer. Thankfully, the local beers have been refreshing and varied. We’ve managed to avoid Sol and Corona so far, largely because there are plenty of popular local alternatives, including stouts and wheat beers — a pleasant surprise.
We were told that chicken is Peru’s favourite dish, so we had to try it. Tori Pollería was recommended by a tour guide and was clearly popular — busy and bustling. If I’m honest though, it didn’t quite live up to expectations. The hot sauce helped (Peruvian tastes seem to lean sweeter rather than fiery), and Jane enjoyed her rice and chicken. But I’ve had better chicken and chips at Nando’s, so I wouldn’t be rushing back. We had a Corona with dinner — and yes, it tasted exactly like Corona at home. Who knew?
Our cooking class, again with Haku, was a real highlight. We were picked up at the hotel by our guide Gaby and taken to a local market, where we wandered through stalls and learned about the sourcing of meat, fish and produce. After meeting our chef, Karina, we headed to a professional kitchen for the class itself. Once again, it was just the two of us — effectively a private session with plenty of personal attention.
We got fully involved, and if I do say so myself, the food was excellent. Flavours and textures came together beautifully — though we may have made one sauce slightly too spicy. A minor miscalculation. Overall: 10/10. I’d absolutely recommend it. Haku impressed us throughout with their communication and organisation (and a bit of effective cross-selling along the way).
In truth, we didn’t explore widely across Lima. Aside from our city-centre visit, most of our time was spent in Miraflores — on tours, out exercising, or relaxing by the pool.
Then came another lively drive back to the airport… and that was Lima.
Easter Island next.
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