Ahoy - Life Aboard Havila Voyages Exploring the Cappella Castor Polaris and Pollux
- RetiredCormac
- Jul 26
- 5 min read
Updated: Aug 2
If you’re considering a voyage with Havila Voyages, you’ve likely got a lot of practical questions—just like I did before I booked. This isn’t your standard cruise experience, and that’s part of what makes it special. Below are some observations from my 2 return trips from Bergen to Kirkenes, intended to answer the kinds of things I see asked often—and wondered about myself.
TL;DR
Lots of useful information gleamed from two separate return voyages, together with input from facebook comments - marked up in red
Keep in mind, these are personal notes and impressions. Everyone’s experience will be different, but hopefully this provides some helpful insight as you plan your own journey.
Not a Cruise - A Comfortable Cruise Ferry
Let’s start with expectations. Havila is a working ship, not a traditional cruise liner. It’s best thought of as a cruise ferry—moving both passengers and a small amount of cargo between numerous Norwegian ports. The route itself is stunning: from the western city of Bergen, up to Kirkenes in the Arctic north, and then back again.
The ship is small, modern, and comfortable. If bad weather rolls in, the crew tends to wait it out or skip a port, rather than push through and risk passenger discomfort. That said, you are traveling in the North Atlantic, so pack accordingly—wind chill is real.
Onboard Amenities - Practical Notes
The ship is well equipped without being flashy. Here's what stood out:
Laundry: Self-service and easy to access. Detergent is available
2 x Lifts/Elevators: Flat and accessible—getting between decks is a breeze for all passengers.
Deck Access: Excellent. Very few areas are off-limits, and there are plenty of quiet corners and sheltered spots with chairs to take in the view.
Reception: always attended and able to help with most things
2 x Gyms: Small but enough for a light workout - with excellent views.
2 x Saunas: Separate for men and women. Towels are available at reception; just leave them in the sauna hamper afterward.
2 x Jacuzzis: Shared. Never particularly warm, but still fun! We brought robes - as it was winter, though this felt a little over-the-top, as changing rooms in the sauna weren’t far away.
Wi-Fi: Available throughout the ship, but often you’ll have a regular mobile signal thanks to the coastal route.
Plenty of seating: Reading corners and communal lounges provide serene spots for unwinding while gazing out at the mesmerising landscapes.
Hot Drinks: Self-serve simple teas and coffees are free. Items including coffee from the café are extra.
Water: Water available from dispensers.
Atmosphere and Demographics
The vibe is peaceful and relaxed. Most, but not all, passengers are 55+ with a good international mix. Think good books, quiet conversations, and the occasional glass of wine as the Arctic coast glides past.
The ship itself is quiet, allowing the natural surroundings—wind, waves, birds—to take centre stage. After about 10:00 PM (especially in winter), the bar quiets down and people retreat to their cabins or observation lounges.
Activities Onboard on board the Havila Ship
While the striking views of Norway may captivate passengers, there is no shortage of engaging activities available onboard.
Educational Talks
Knowledgeable guides provide educational talks about the regions visited. Topics range from marine biology to local history, enriching the travel experience and adding depth to the stunning surroundings. .
Entertainment Programs
Beyond aurora hunting, there are a few low-key but fun activities:
Quiz Night: Surprisingly competitive and fun.
Sister ships passing
Food tastings: Lots of new things to taste with explanations
Deck Events: Celebrations when meeting sister ships—some passengers get really into it!
Dining - What to Expect
The dining experience focuses on fresh, local cuisine, showcasing the best of Norwegian gastronomy.
Breakfast: No reservations. You’ll be shown to an available table - there are some self server cold choices and hot food brought to your table.
Lunch & Dinner: Dinning times and seats are reserved on boarding day. If you have a preference (as I did), aim to arrive early at check-in secure your preferred seating and meal times. You can change reservation times as needed with the host at the entrance to the restaurant - particularly useful to fit around excursions or port visits.
Tables: Mostly 2s and 4s, with a few larger 6-person round tables. All have great views.
Dress Code: None. Casual and comfortable works.
Food Quality: Good choice of dishes that should suit everyone. Nothing too spicy, but certainly not bland. Quality had slipped a bit between our two journeys - most notably the sailer steak wasn’t as good second time around - but still satisfying.
Portion Control: You basically get to eat as much as you want, but served in such a way to minimise food waste. We always ordered extra vegetables. You can also request a large portion for your dinner main course.
Snacks: Available to buy at the cafe or when you disembark in port towns.
Drinks: Well stocked bar. Drink packages are no longer offered.
Cabins
Serviced daily with beds made, ensuite bathrooms cleaned and refreshed with towels changed daily. You’ll find soap and shampoo dispensers in the shower, but I’d recommend bringing your own if you prefer something specific—they’re quite generic.
Guests can opt for eco-friendly option of not having the cabin serviced daily.
As this is where you spend a third of your time - mostly sleeping, I'm going to do a separate post on it.
Observation Lounges
The ships also feature indoor observation lounges with floor-to-ceiling windows, offering a comfortable space to take in the landscape. This is ideal for those who want to stay warm while enjoying stunning vistas.
Other Tips
Packing: Be weather-smart. Layers, windproof gear, and warm accessories are essential - even when the sun is out.
Shopping: You'll stop in several towns where you can pick up anything you forgot.
Support: The Havila website is well-designed and the help desk staff were responsive and helpful during both trips.
Changes that I know of (Happy to amend)
Havila is still evolving. Some updates are great, others less so:
❌ Lanyards seem to be gone. Free to suite guests - but can be purchased by other guests.
❌ Drinks package has been discontinued.
❌ Fresh café items are now charged separately.
✅ Still a beautiful ship and an unforgettable route.
Final Thoughts
Traveling with Havila is less about luxury and more about immersive, scenic slow travel along one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines. It's functional, relaxing, and full of surprises—from glowing auroras to charming harbour towns.
If you’re after noisy nightlife, flashy shows, or buffet madness—this isn’t it.
But if you want peace, comfort, and natural beauty, I can’t recommend it enough.
For more posts relating to Havila Voyages - click here;
