Cycle Touring - Phase 1 - Adventures with the kids cycling the North Sea Cycle Route
- RetiredCormac
- 23 hours ago
- 6 min read
Between 2007 and 2014, I cycled large sections of the North Sea Cycle Route (EV1) with my children, camping across Denmark, Norway, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and the UK. These trips were the first phase of what became a lifelong cycle touring journey.
I’ve a distinct memory of cycling down a steep winding road in Oslo with two of my kids. All was good until they decided to race each other fuelled by Haribo, and were soon out of sight.
They are in their 20s now.
At the time it just felt like a camping holiday. Looking back now, I realise it was the first phase of a cycling life that would evolve, in quite individual phases, over the next twenty years.
The Three Phases of My Cycling Life
Phase 1 - Adventures with the kids cycling the North Sea Cycle Route
Phase 2 - Long distance solo Expeditions - <link>
Phase 3 - Relaxed cycle holidays with my wife that include long lunches and nice hotels - <link>
Whilst I’ve constantly cycled throughout my life - I can see that there have been three distinct phases that have only become apparent to me as I look in my rear view mirror over my many cycling adventures.
In this set of blog posts - I look in detail at each of the three distinct cycling phases, reflecting on the merits and challenges of each, before deciding whether the relatively short time of Phase 3 is indeed the best time of my life.
The Bikes and Touring Setup
Claud Butler Rock, mountain bike - Mine
Small Specialised, mountain bike - Kids
Kids trailer, repurposed to carry luggage & camping gear
Discovering the North Sea Cycle Route (EV1)
I stumbled upon the North Sea Cycle Route, not sure how or why, but I imagine it was via EV1 signage that I saw on holiday either in Scandinavia, Netherlands or France.
Either way - once I saw the expanse of the route I was immediately drawn to trying to complete as much of it as possible. I read an interesting book called cycling back to happiness by Bernie Friend that further piqued my interest.
I remember setting a goal to complete all 6,000km when I retired. We’ll get to that later. At this point in time I wasn’t aware of or interested in the other EV routes - I was that smitten.
I was in my 30s - those were the days. Information on the internet wasn’t that great - google maps had only been launched and needed a desktop!
Planning was fairly minimal anyway with shorter daily distances, with plenty of stops. The kids rode bikes without any luggage, and I hauled a trailer full of clothes and camping gear.
The general format was to get dropped off at the port by my obliging wife, or take the car and leave it parked at the UK port.
The idea of using trains (which would have involved multiple changes) to and from UK ports - wasn’t something that I was prepared to consider. (Think three bikes, trailer, two young kids)
Between 2007 and 2014, I cycled large sections of the North Sea Cycle Route with my children, hauling camping gear across Denmark, Norway, the Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and of course the UK. Looking back those were the first years that formed the first chapter of my cycle touring life.
Annual Family Cycling Adventures
2007 - Denmark and the DFDS Ferry to Esbjerg
Esbjerg(DK) to Struer(DK). This was when there was a DFDS ferry that sailed from Harwich(UK) to Esbjerg(DK), and a regular commuter train could take us back to Esbjerg(DK). At one point we happened upon the Danish Army playing war games - picture tanks, tents and soldiers.
2008 - Norway, Ferries and Pulpit Rock
Stavanger(N) to Bergen(N). Long gone is the P&O ferry that sailed from Newcastle(UK) to Stavanger(N), Haugesund(N) and then Bergen(N).
Navigating our way along the west coast of Norway was a challenge and involved a good number of ferries, and significant climbs.
Campsites were few and far between, but we managed without having to wild camp - which is perfectly acceptable in Scandinavia.
We visited Pulpit rock near Stavanger for the first time, and met a German man without a filter. My 8 year old got to hear how English fish and chips had gave him a ‘Sweaty Asshole’. Never did get his name.
2009 - Dunkirk to Hook or Holland
Dunkirk(F) to Hook of Holland(NL). Ferry from Hull(UK) to Zeebrugge(B) before cycling down to Dunkirk(F) to the most southernmost point of the North Sea Cycle Route.
I’m not sure what was in my head - I think it was a combination of filling time on what was a short cycle, and the purist in me.
Cycling north returning to Hull(UK) from Hook of Holland(NL).
2010 - Flying with Bikes to Hamburg
Flying into Hamburg(DE) from London was a first for us.
I felt guilty abandoning our cardboard packing boxes at the airport - there just wasn’t a bin big enough.
Having rebuilt the bikes on landing at the airport, we cycled up to Esbjerg(DK), to catch the ferry back to Harwich(UK). We’d connected two segments for the first time.
2011 - Gothenburg, Oslo and Denmark
No simple ferry routes, so we flew in and out of Gothenburg.
Large lockers were available at the airport for our packing box, stuffed with the cycle bags.
We cycled up to Oslo, took the ferry south to Hirtshals(DK), leaving Denmark from Grenaa(DK), and cycling back up to Gothenburg, where we retrieved the packing box and cycle bags for a flight home.
These were still the days when a large clear bag for £5 from Wiggle was acceptable as a bike bag. I miss those days.
2012 - Cycling the UK Coastline
UK based.
Train to Edinburgh, were I immediately picked up a puncture, before cycling south, swapping the kids around because of their increasing other commitments before cycling south as far as we could in the time we had. Cycling over the Humber bridge was a highlight.
We made it to Fakenham,
2013 - Holland to Hamburg
Hook of Holland(NL) to Hamburg(D), where we met up with my wife and daughter, who had travelled over with empty packing boxes and bags for our flight home.
We had a great few days in Hamburg.
2014 - Completing the English Section
UK based
Dropped off where we finished in 2012, Fakenham, and cycled south to Harwich - completing the English Section of the North Sea Cycle Route.
UK cycling is not as cool as Cycling in mainland Europe.
The EV1 was still under developed, and hadn’t been properly discovered.
Camping, Hotels and Travelling with Kids
Camping mostly, though as we all got older, and I got a bit wiser with booking accommodation we opted for occasional hotels - allowing for more of a deep clean between campsites.
We were 100% camping in 2007, and by 2014 100% hotels.
The Cost of Family Cycle Touring
Costs were always reasonable.
Ferries without a car were cheap, though overnight travel required the expense of a cabin.
Campsites were on the most part reasonably priced, as were small hotels along the route - especially when booked well in advance.
Kids prefer snacks and familiar food - so simple pasta and sauces were a big favourite.
Drinks were minimal - I needed to be a responsible parent.
Why Those Years Were So Special
It was a great time. What kid doesn’t love camping and the outdoors.
The EV1 cycle paths are so much better than anything that we have in the UK, and the campsites are ideally situated along the route.
The coastal route has lots to see and do, with lots of opportunities for both food and drinks.
Miles were covered, powered on a heady cocktail of bananas, chocolate and Coca Cola.
We got sunburnt, soaked, roasted and were freezing over the years.
We debated super heroes, recorded road kill, debated what animal would beat what other animal in a fight.
I loved it.
I think the kids only remember the good times, and the many hours of boring cycling have been put to the back of their heads.
Breakfasts were usually rolls or buns in a supermarket carpark.
Over the years we did so many sections of the route - either with one or two kids, depending on their capability, experience and interest.
Eventually though their interest waned.
I did take one of the kids away again many years later - he was probably 18 - from Venice to Pisa. He swore he would never do similar again with me ever!
Why the Family Touring Years Eventually Ended
The kids developed other interests as they got older, and were less excited about a week on a bike.
Clubs, competitions and other commitments got increasingly more difficult to work around.
The accessible portions of the route that could be completed within a week or 10 days were fewer and more costly.
Looking Ahead to Phase 2 - Solo Long Distance Cycling
I had got a little plump and required a little more exercise. Whilst life had become busier I was also enjoying earlier mornings and longer days in the saddle on my road bike.
I was also happy with my own company.
Family cycling touring and cycle camping with kids was behind me for now, but I felt I still had a few long rides in me.
Comments