Cycle Touring – Phase 3 – Best Cycling of My Life

We found ourselves in a small village off the main road in rural France - it was coming up to 13:00, and we were in danger of missing ‘menu du midi’.

We knew it would be good, given the number of vans parked up outside.

We were well fed for 16 Euro - with as much water, red wine, cider and lemonade as you wanted.

I love France.

That lunch in rural France perfectly framed something that I'd been thinking about for a while.

After years of cycle touring of different types, I was no longer looking for longer distances, more complicated itineraries or adventures anymore.

That was behind me - I'd moved on.

I was looking for a better time - travelling at a slower pace, enjoying company and living experiences.

This is the last part of my story of how my cycling life evolved through three distinct phases, and is how I want to move forward.

Since retiring in October 2023, my wife and I have been cycling together for the first time in our 35+ years together.

We’ve been on short local cycles for lunch and drinks, as well as multi-day cycle holidays in the Netherlands and France.

During which I’ve taken the opportunity to revisit some areas, restaurants and accommodation that I’ve particularly enjoyed on previous tours and have enjoyed sharing the experience with my wife.

These trips are defining the third and what I expect to be the last phase of my lifelong cycle touring journey.

Phase	Description	Period
1	Family adventures with the kids	Early years
2	Solo long-distance expeditions	Working life
3	Relaxed cycling holidays with Jane	Retirement

We’ve experienced, reflected and tuned our approach and I think we have achieved close to what I would consider perfection - for cycle touring.

Gone are the personal challenges, no more long days in the saddle.

Solo expeditions are behind me.

The Three Phases of My Cycling Life

Phase 1 – Adventures with the kids cycling the North Sea Cycle Route

Phase 2 – Long-distance solo expeditions

Phase 3 – Relaxed cycle holidays with my wife that include long lunches and nice hotels

Whilst I’ve cycled consistently throughout my life, I can now see that there have been distinct phases that only became apparent as I looked in the rear-view mirror over my many cycling adventures.

In this set of blog posts, I look in detail at each phase, reflecting on the merits and challenges of each before deciding whether the relatively short period of Phase 3 is indeed the best time of my life.

The Bikes and Touring Setup

• Trek 520, dedicated steel touring bike - Mine

• Cube Touring Hybrid EXC 625 - Wife’s

• 4 * Ortlieb Pannier Bags

• Car with Thule Bike Carrier mounted on tow bar

I still have a few other bikes during this time - but doesn't everyone?

Bye Bye Solo Cycle Touring

My Monaco to Hook of Holland was the longest and most disappointing cycle tour. The plan had been fantastic - fly into Nice, watch Monaco F1 Practice day and then set off on a 20+ night adventure north through Eastern France, Belgium and Holland - mostly sticking to quiet and defined cycle paths, powered by early morning coffee and croissants, magnificent lunches, and epic places to stay.

And whilst there was some of this - it turned out to be, well, a little bit dull.

The cycle west out of Nice along the Mediterranean coast was pretty cool, as was turning north and inland, but after only a few days, the cycle became quite samey.

The route looked the same, the weather didn't change much, the days were difficult to distinguish between each other. There were of course a few standout points - a view, an overnight stay, a short coffee stop, a great meal.

But in the most part the whole French countryside felt empty.

Miles of cycling without seeing another person, never mind a cyclist.

Villages that had been left to crumble, abandoned. Towns that that didn't have a bar, restaurant just a shop/boulangerie.

High mileage trips need treats - a coffee, cake, beer, good lunches and great places to stay.

By the time I arrived into Langres, maybe a third in, I’d pretty much had enough.

It was dawning on me, that having already retired from work, I didn’t 'need' the escape from the 9 to 5 grind - I already had that.

There wasn’t that “I’d rather be doing this, than the weekly client meeting” - I hadn’t escaped from anything other than a pretty comfortable time at home.

I followed EuroVelo 19 - Meuse Cycle Route from Langres - sticking pretty close to it - right through to the Hook of Holland.

It was only when I got into the Netherlands that the cycle changed - my mood lifted and I began enjoying the scenery, the food and the adventure again.

I wouldn't recommend EV19 from Langres north.

The only adventure was getting chased down by the dogs - I had a tailwind, a straight road, and strong legs. Had they caught me, I’m convinced it would have ended badly.

I completely zoned out later that day and cycled on past my stop for the night and then had to back track 15km! The hotel was naff, and the town was naff.

And if that wasn't enough I then had to recycle the duplicated route the next day.

Things improved dramatically once I reached Maastricht.

In short - it was a long lonely cycle.

Having retired, Jane and I were spending more time together and that was enjoyable.

We took time over breakfast, didn’t rush to work, had more lunches out, with little to rush back for, and took a little more time over making dinner. The urgency in our lives had reduced and with a long transition into retirement - I had transitioned from ‘what’s next to pretty chilled.

Solo cycling. I was done with that kind of cycling.

That said - I was soon missing the touring - especially as I had all the kit.

In the end the answer was pretty simple.

Get Jane a bike.

A gentler pace - with more stops, more sight seeing, and we could cycle together.

New bike day for Jane was 14/07/2024 when her Cube Touring Hybrid EXC 625 was delivered. Whilst heavy, very heavy, it comes with a good motor and a large battery. After a helmet, padded seat, padded shorts - we were ready to set out on Phase 3 - Best Cycling of My Life.

Jane loved it. I loved it.

We did a few local cycles together - enjoyed our coffees, had the odd lunch out.

It wasn't long until we were enjoying the planning stage of our first multiday cycle together.

Here are the rides that we’ve done so far;

2024 – Netherlands

We took a chance with the weather and opted for a tour through the Netherlands in September. We chose to park the car at Harwich and take the boat over to the Hook of Holland - to enjoy the wide and car free cycle paths through central Netherlands.

Riding onto the boat was a special moment - I'd done the same with the kids, by myself, and now with Jane.

The next morning disembarking and disappearing onto the cycle paths of the Netherlands confirmed that we'd done the right thing.

We stuck closely to a plan of lower mileage, staying in hotels, enjoying breakfasts, hearty lunches and dinners. We took time to revisit some spots that we’d been to over the last 30 years - but at a much more relaxed pace. There are so many options in the Netherlands, that it's not worth walking through our route - we’re not the same and we all enjoy different things.

Heading back on the ferry was a breeze, as was getting back to the car that we’d, like all the other cyclists, parked in the station car park.

It was a great trip and even better that Jane was a willing participant.

Cycling onto the Harwich Ferry

Re-visiting the Netherlands

Cycling into Retirement

I did note that it was a faff to fit the bikes into the car - careful packing was needed, and I could do without the hassle of breaking down the bikes for transport and rebuilding at the other end.

2024 & 2025 – Bangkok, Maldives, Lecce

No we didn’t take the bikes, but did enjoy a cycle experience in each of these destinations.

Lecce cycling

Maldives Cycling

Maldives Cycling

Bangkok Cycling

2025 – Ouistreham to St Malo

Sailing from Portsmouth, we then followed the Velo Verte routes across Northern France - using both hotels and accommodation found on Booking.com.

It was an enjoyable trip with plenty of laughs and excellent food.

We returned via Guernsey, taking the slow ferry back to Portsmouth. We’d parked the car in a secure church car park - which I’d found on one of the parking sites - this worked well, and it felt good to give the money to a charity.

Parking in a church car park

Velo Verte - France

2026 – Western France

This was our latest and best.

We’d taken all the things that we’d learnt from previous cycles and applied them for a better holiday.

The addition of a tow bar and the purchase of a Thule bike rack was a game changer.

We drove down through France to specific locations, and then were able to cycle most days - without anything more than water and locks. Weather wasn’t an issue as we didn’t have to cycle from A to B each day.

Most cycles were loops back to the hotel at which we were staying and could be elongated or curtailed as needed. Each of course included a lunch, and allowed us to work up an appetite for dinner.

Honestly - we thing we’ve cracked cycle touring now, and by the looks of the number of couples driving around the areas that we visited with a couple of bikes on the back - we aren’t the first. I’m not sure why its taken us so long to get here - but I’m glad we have done.

Hotels & Guest Houses When Solo Touring

Hotels and small apartments have always been my preference.

Cycling with Jane - it’s the same.

Staying in someone’s spare room - as nice as it was - wasn’t for us.

Chatting with hosts or sharing dinner with strangers has never really appealed to me or us.

The Cost of Solo Touring

It’s annoyed me for years that a room for one costs the same as a room for two. I like value for money.

I’m happy that Jane and I are staying in the same accommodation as my solo cycling days - for the same price.

Revisting the Best Places

I’m making it a point to think back to my solo cycling, identifying the best places that I stayed, ate, drank, or just visited and have begun working these into our cycling plans.

Whilst in Western France in 2026 - we revisited a restaurant and an accommodation that I particularly enjoyed first time around. Both hit the spot again.

Zipping around in the car - doing the milage in between quickly and efficiently is such a good idea.

Looking Forward to more Phase 3 – Relaxed Cycling Holidays

We’ve got the set up right now, and are already planning some more cycling holidays.

Taking the car is 100% the right approach.

I will miss cycling onto the ferry, though I won’t miss the waiting around at the port in the cold and dark.

When I started cycling, I thought cycle touring was about distance, testing myself, a challenge. But now, for the current me anyway, I realise that it's about shared experiences, great food, good company and the freedom to revisit and explore at my own pace.

Phase 3 may not be the most adventurous and challenging chapter of my cycling life, but do I need that at 55+?

It is though undoubtedly the most enjoyable.